Microsoft Word - a2017 FEB. MG Mag.docx

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CONTENTS: Page

• Plant-of-the-Month: Olive Tree 1-4

• Water-Wise Plant-of-the-Month: Blue Fescue 5

…Other Species & Cultivars 5

• Tropical Plants: Monkey Pod Tree 6

• Combatting Weeds 7-8

• Dynamic Dwarfs 9

• Winged Wonders of Doña Ana County 10-11

• Scorpionflies: Harmless Insects 11

• Gardening With Less Water (Book)

• Merlin ID (App)

• Honey-Do List for February

13-14

• February 2017 MG Birthdays 15

• Special Event Dates 15

Fruit/Veggies/Herbs

• Crop Planning for Kitchen Garden 16-17

• 18 Tips on Starting Seeds 18

Wildlife

• Coyotes

• Winter Care for Houseplants

HEALING HERBS & PLANTS

• Healing Herbs: Lavender

21-22

U.S.D.A. INVASIVE PLANTS:

• Black Medick 23

• MG Monthly Meeting Minutes 24-25

• MG Hotline Duty Information 26

• NMSU Plant Diagnostic Clinic 26

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine

• Doña Ana & Luna Counties

• U.S. Department of Agriculture

• NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer

and Environmental Sciences

Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office

1170 N. Solano, Suite M, Las Cruces, NM 88001

Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652

MG Program Administrator: Jeff Anderson

Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener

Magazines can be downloaded at the NMSU Website @ Link:

http://aces.nmsu.edu/county/donaana/mastergardener/monthlymagazines.html

& the Luna County Website @ Link:

http://www.lunacountynm.us

FEBRUARY 2017!

Vol. 18, Issue 2

PLANT-OF-THE-MONTH

Master Gardener Hotline Contact Data

(January 1, 2017 through January 31, 2017)

# Total Contacts 5 Geographic Area Subject of Inquiry

# Total Issues Addressed 19 Las Cruces 3 Animals 0 Irrigation 3

Ethnicity of Contacts

La Mesa 1 Disease 1 Lawns 0

Hispanic Females 0 Mesilla Park 1 Fertilizer 3 Shrubs 1

Hispanic Males 1 Flowers 0 Soil 1

Non-Hispanic Females 2 General Info 1 Trees 2

Non-Hispanic Males 2 Herbicides 0 Veggies 2

Asian Female or Male 0 Insecticides 2 Weeds 0

Black/African Male 0 Insects 1 Misc.* 1 (*Pruning)

Thank you to Certified Master Gardener Laurie Davidson for collecting this data.

OLIVE TREES

Olive trees (Olea europaea) are evergreens with pale grey bark and gnarled trunks.

Tree height ranges from 12 to 30 feet, depending on the cultivar (and pruning, of course.)

The trees can live for hundreds of years. Their wood can also be used for furniture.

Most Olive trees are man-made cultivars, rather than true botanical varieties, and won't

reproduce true to seed; they are propagated by grafting.

Seeds are planted, though, being cracked before planting to help them germinate.

When seedlings grow up from them, they are either used as rootstock to which cuttings

from other trees are grafted, or let grow and examined to see whether they might be a

new variety that is worth developing.

Olive trees can withstand some cold: in fact, they need some or they won't produce

fruit. They are not, though, trees meant for where a real winter happens. At 17°F, frost-

damage occurs to the trees. At 12°F, the damage is severe. Below 10°F, most of the tree

above ground may die, though the tree might grow back overtime from its roots.

Olive trees generally start to bear fruit at 5 years of age, though this can vary by

cultivar. Olives grow on branches from the previous season.

Article Continues on Page 2

Beginning our 8

Year of Providing

Gardening-Related Information & News

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 2

Olive Trees—Continued From Front Page

GROWING OLIVES IN THE SOUTHWEST

Fruit-bearing Olive trees do not fair too well here in the desert South-

west, the winter temps get too low and the tree freezes back to the

ground, but it does seem to come back from the roots in the spring.

There are some fairly large fruitless Olive trees in Las Cruces, NM,

but with the recent below zero temps, they died and are coming back as

shrubs.

It is very hard to find fruit-bearing trees in any of the local nurseries

because of the pollen they produce and related allergy issues. Arizona has

a lot of Olive trees, but they are non-bearing.

If you really want a fruit-bearing Olive tree and have a well-protected

place to plant it, buying one on-line is your best choice.

There is a variety of Olive that will grow here and it is the NM Olive or

NM Privet. They are more like a shrub with very small berry-like fruit.

They do very well here in the desert Southwest and can even be found

growing wild in some arroyos. Birds love the berries this plant produces

PLANTING AN OLIVE TREE

An Olive tree, or Olea europaea, is an evergreen tree native to many

parts of the Mediterranean region. Planting Olive trees can be done using

either seeds, known as pits, or seedlings sold in pots at most nurseries.

Olive trees planted from seeds may not produce much fruit, though, if any.

These trees must be planted in the right type of climate and soil, and

special care should be taken during planting and during the first few years

for the tree to thrive.

As Olive trees are native to the Mediterranean, they prefer milder

climates. Warm, sunny regions are best, and planting Olive trees in wet

regions or where the temperature drops below 15 degrees F (-7 degrees

C) is not recommended. Also, these types of trees have a shallow root

system, and areas with our frequent periods of high winds may not be the

best place to plant an Olive tree. The winds can uproot the tree and,

possibly, cause the fruit to drop too early, resulting in a poor crop.

Olive trees can often grow in a variety of soil types. It is believed that

mildly fertile soil is best. The soil should be well-draining because these

trees prefer a somewhat dry environment.

Regularly watering Olive trees is recommended until the tree is

established. To ensure that the trees are not over-watered, gardeners can

install a drip irrigation system. After new growth begins to appear on the

trees, they do not need to be watered as much. Gardeners can then

gradually reduce the amount of water given to the trees and, afterward,

only water them during dry spells.

If a gardener were planting Olive trees simply for the crop, to make

Olive Oil, for example, more than one tree would be ideal. Depending

on a number of factors, an average Olive tree will produce between 10

and 500 pounds of Olives each season, and it takes roughly 40 pounds

of olives to make one gallon of oil. Younger trees will generally produce

fewer olives. If a person is planning to produce a few gallons of Olive

Oil, a small Olive tree garden is usually preferred. In this case, many

experts agree that the trees should be placed no less than 20 feet apart

to allow for maximum growth.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS

Climate is the most important limiting factor in the distribution of the

Olive in Texas and elsewhere. Temperature controls growth,

reproduction, and survival of the olive. Growth begins after mean

temperatures warm to 70°F in the spring and continues until

temperatures drop below this point in the fall. Unlike the fruit trees that

we are familiar with, such as the peach, the Olive does not set fruiting

buds in the fall. Instead, the Olive will only set flower buds after being

exposed to cool night (35°F-50°F) and mildly warm day temperatures.

Survival and freeze damage of Olives depends on how long the

temperature stays low as well as how well the trees are hardened off,

i.e. gradual temperature decline as opposed to going from 95ºF to 25ºF;

high wind and low humidity can also make the freeze injury worse.

Rapidly growing trees in the fall from too much water and fertilizer are

particularly sensitive to subfreezing temperatures. The Olive may be

grown as an ornamental in those areas which do not receive enough

cold to set fruit.

Article Continues on Page 3

When planting Olive trees from a pot,

the hole should be dug approximately the

same size as the pot. Without disturbing

the rootball too much, roots that are

tangled or circling the outside of the root

ball should be untwisted or cut, and the

tree can be placed in the hole just below

the surface. It is recommended that the

root system be placed no more than 1 inch

below the surface, and the rootball should

fit snugly into the hole.

To ensure proper growth, many experts

agree that pruning and shaping of the tree

should be kept to a minimum in the first

few years. One strong main trunk should

be left, along with five or ten of the

strongest top branches. If, after planting

Olive trees, they seem to lean or fall over,

the top branches can be pruned, or they

can be staked until they are able to stay

upright.

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 3

Olive Trees—Continued From Page 3

CURING OLIVES Botanically, the Olive is a fruit classed as a "drupe" -

a fruit with a single large pit (aka stone) inside. Green Olives and Black

Olives will be fruit from the same tree, just picked at different stages. It

is pale green when immature, darker green when it has reached its full

size, then purple or black when ripe. Green Olives have more zing and

more bitterness than Black Olives; Black Olives lack the zing, but have

a richer, mellower flavor.

The five methods of curing table Olives are:

• Dry-Cured Olives • Brine-Cured Olives

• Lye-Cured Olives • Fresh-Water Cured Olives

• Oil-Curing

It's often difficult to know what variety or cultivar of Olive you are

actually eating. Olive Oil jars almost never say what type of Olives the

oils were made from, and only rarely does a jar of Olives prove any

more helpful. The list of "types" of Olives that you can buy is actually a

mix of actual names of actual Olives, and names of various classes and

methods of preparing them for table use.

The size of an Olive depends more on the tree it is from than how

young it is picked. While the pulp of most fruit is water -- with Olives, it's

oil. Most Olives grown in the world are used for Olive Oil.

Olives are actually quite bitter when eaten straight off the tree. The

method of "curing" them to draw out the bitterness helps determine the

flavor and texture of the finished product, which is called "Table Olives"

(also referred to as "prepared Olives" or "Pickled Olives." Olives for Oil

are not cured.

How an Olive is cured actually has more impact on the taste of the

final product than what cultivar it was or where it was grown. Some

cures will produce juicier, plumper Olives than other types of curing.

After curing, Olives are then finished off in a variety of ways: brine,

vinegar, oil, etc. Spices and herbs may or may not be added. The brine

that Olives are placed in after curing is called the "mother brine." They

will ferment in this. They will also ferment a bit in any brine they are

ultimately packed in afterwards. Sometimes, Olives are pasteurized to

prevent this, which lets them be shipped more easily, but the

“pasteurization” does affect the flavor.

HISTORY Harvesting of Olives in New World countries such as

America, Australia and New Zealand is largely done with machines. The

Israelis are also big on mechanized harvesting. Producers in Southern

Europe would like to go this way, but the cultivars of Olive trees that

they grow, which produce the prized oil they are famous for, don't

always lend themselves to harvesting by machine either because the

branches grow too high, or the Olives cling too tightly to the branches.

In America, Olives are grown in California, and to a small extent in

Arizona, New Mexico and Texas. California only produces .5% to 1% of

the Olives in the world. Article Continues on Page 4

OLIVE TREE FACTS

Source: Olives, Authors: Larry Stein, Jim Kamas & Monte Nesbitt, Extension Fruit

Specialists, Texas AgriLife Extension, at link: http://aggie-

horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/files/2010/10/olives.pdf

Botany: The Olive (Olea europaea L.) is a subtropical evergreen tree or shrub

with opposite leaves. The leaves are lance-shaped, waxy green on top and

grayish green on the bottom. Young bark is green, but older bark is gray. In the

Mediterranean, Olive trees are known to live for over a thousand years. If the

top is damaged, a new tree will sprout from underground parts.

Climate: Climate is the most important limiting factor in the distribution of the

Olive in Texas and elsewhere. Temperature controls growth, reproduction, and

survival of the olive. Growth begins after mean temperatures warm to 70°F in

the spring and continues until temperatures drop below this point in the fall.

Soil Adaptation: The Olive has a wide adaptability with regard to soils; it will

tolerate a variety from sands to clays with a pH of 5.5 to 8.5. Olive trees have

fairly shallow root systems so they do not need a deep soil, but the soils must

be well-drained. Three to four feet of unstratified soils is optimum for

production.

Site Prep: Orchard sites should be prepared 12 to 18 months prior to planting

the trees. This involves killing perennial weeds and grasses and deep chiseling

or ripping down the planting rows to insure breakup of any hard layer. Soil

sample(s) should be taken from the area, and any needed amendments applied

prior to planting, so that they can be more easily incorporated around the

planting site.

Cultivation: The Olive is drought-tolerant, but grows best when it has sufficient

water. Overwatering should be avoided. Water regularly, but do not allow

waterlogging to take place. An ideal water amount to apply would be an inch of

water a week. It is critical to continue to water mature trees as the crop is

maturing. The Olive is very efficient at extracting nutrients from the soil, and

nitrogen is usually the only element that must be applied. Mature trees need

from 1/2 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per year, depending on tree size.

Deficiencies of potassium and boron are rare but possible. Fertilize in the spring

when new growth begins.

Pruning: Pruning should be delayed until early spring. Because the tree does

not go dormant, any increase in temperature after pruning will stimulate growth

that might be damaged by freezing temperatures. Prune Olives by thinning out

dead or otherwise unproductive wood. It should not be topped.

Pests/Disease: Stress has been the main culprit of tree death to date, as

opposed to bacterial and fungal pathogens. However, there are numerous

potential problem diseases of which cotton root rot (Phymatotricopsis omnivora)

would be one of the most important. Olive trees are quite susceptible to cotton

root rot and many trees have been lost to this soil-borne fungus in Texas. This

disease is prevalent in high pH soils in the Southwest where Olives are

climatically best adapted in Texas. Because cotton root rot more readily affects

plants that are not adequately supplied with water, it is essential to keep the

area around the tree weed-free to reduce water stress from competition.

Deer have been a serious deterrent to tree growth in many areas, making

high fences a necessity for commercial production.

Varieties:

See Page 4 for a list of Olive Tree varieties.

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 4

Olive Trees—Continued From Page 3

‘Arberquina’ ‘Arbosano’

VARIETIES OF OLIVE TREES

Numerous varieties of Olive have been tried in Texas with cold-hardiness

being the key selection factor. The varieties that have had the most success to

date with survival and production are listed here.

Not all varieties perform the same at all locations. Most of the Olives grown

in Texas have been pressed for oil. However, various growers and hobbyists

have produced table olives by brining them as well.

‘Arberquina’ (shown on left above) is probably the most planted cultivar in

Texas to date. It originates from Spain and is widely planted there. It has very

good cold hardiness, is self fertile, and reaches 12 to 15 feet at maturity. The

fruit is quite small but the trees tend to produce fruit that yields oil that is very

sweet with a delicate almond overtone. The fruit could be brined as well.

‘Arbosano’ (shown on right above) has done well in many locations though

it only has moderate cold tolerance. It originates from Spain and is pollinated by

Arberquina. Trees get 12 to 15 feet tall and the fruit can either be pressed for

oil or processed.

‘Frantoio’ ‘Manzanilla’

‘Frantoio’ (shown on left above) originates from Italy and only has low cold

tolerance, however the trees have grown well in many areas of Texas. Still in

some areas the trees have been productive and in others only a handful of

Olives produced per tree. It is self-fertile with trees reaching 20 plus feet in

height, and the fruit is used for oil.

‘Manzanilla’ (shown on right above) also came from Spain, but is widely

planted in the U.S. and Middle East in addition to Spain. The fruit is primarily

used as a table Olive and has moderate cold tolerance. Most canned Black

Olives are of this variety, though it can be pressed for its oil. The tree requires a

pollinizer, but if you have a series of varieties in the orchard fruit set should not

be a problem. Manzanilla fruit are usually pressed for oil in Texas.

‘Mission’ ‘Pendolino”

‘Mission’ (shown on left above) was developed in the United

States and has good tolerance to cold. It is self-fruitful with a tree

height under 20 feet. It can either be processed into oil or brined for

table olives.

‘Pendolino’ (shown on right above) is a universal pollinizer variety

from Italy with moderate cold tolerance, however to date it has

performed poorly in many areas. Trees can get 20 feet tall or greater,

and it is used for oil. The only reason to plant this variety to date

would be to have an exclusive pollinizer for Manzanilla.

‘Picual’ Fruit ‘Picual’ Tree

‘Picual’ (fruit and tree shown above) is the number one planted

variety in Spain for oil. The tree is vigorous and adaptable with

moderate cold tolerance. Even though the fruit is larger than some of

the other varieties, yields in Texas have been disappointing to date.

The oil tends to be quite pungent, with a long shelf life.

HARVEST Olive harvest typically begins in mid to late September or

early October. The maturity of an Olive at harvest can be anywhere

from completely green to totally black, depending on variety. Most are

harvested as fruit begins to color. Harvest is delayed to allow the crop

to reach the desired size and weight, however crop value will be lost

if one waits too long to harvest. In most cases the crop is removed

from the tree by hand though mechanical harvest of the fruit is a

necessity in larger operations. The challenge of mechanical

harvesting is to remove the fruit from the tree without damaging the

tree or fruit. Most of the Olives grown in Texas have been pressed for

oil. However, various growers and hobbyists have produced table

olives as well.

ECONOMICS The high cost of Olive Oil in the grocery stores and the

great health benefits associated with eating Olive oil has led many to

believe that producing “Extra Virgin Texas Olive Oil” is financially

lucrative. However, the costs to produce Olive oil are high and the

competition fierce. It takes anywhere from 75 to 125 pounds of Olives

to produce one gallon of oil depending on the cultivar.

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 5

WATER-WISE PLANTS

Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca)

Sources: Blue Fescue in ‘Water-Wise Plants for the SW by N. Sterman, M. Irish,

J. Phillips and J. Lamp’l, Cool Springs Press, 2007.

And NM Gardener’s Guide, by J. Phillips, Cool Springs Press, 2004

Zones: 4 through 11

Form: Clumping

Growth & Mature Size: Moderate-growing evergreen grass to 4 to 12 inches

x 12 inches.

Uses: Meadow, mass, understory, accent, rock garden,

dry streambed

Soil: Well-draining soil; no soggy soils

Pests: None

Description: Fescue is a perennial bunching grass that forms

rounded tufts of narrow blades. In summer, the tufts are topped with

wands of wheat-like flowers that blow in the breeze. Some members of

these evergreen, cool-season grasses have handsome deep green

blades, but the Blue Fescues are the ones that always catch your eye.

They look lovely planted as a sea surrounding the trunk of a pine or other

deep green-leaved shrub or tree. If you are trying to create an Asian feel

to your garden, plant Blue Fescue in a large, rectangular area, setting

plants out on a diagonal grid. Keep the Fescue trimmed to maintain its

geometry.

Cultivation:

• Spacing depends on the variety.

• Water deeply and mulch well at planting. After that, water every three to

four days for a month though the first summer.

• If needed, apply time-release fertilizer in spring.

• Cut back established plants to within a few inches of the ground in early

spring.

• Divide overgrown clumps in fall.

Shared Spaces

o Blue Fescue tone softens the garden. Plant in clusters of odd

number of plants (3,5,7) for a natural look, or mass plant for a

meadow.

o Plant Blue Fescue into garden borders or mass on hillside to

control erosion.

o It’s an excellent choice for edging a walkway or flowerbed, or

planting between pavers.

‘Sea Urchin’ ‘Boulder Blue’

‘Siskiyou’ ‘Meerblau’

‘Azurit’ ‘California Fescue’

Other Species and Cultivars:

• ‘Sea Urchin’ is compact, to 8 inches x 12 inches with brighter steel-

blue foliage.

• ‘Boulder Blue’ is intense blue; upright at 15 inches x 12 inches.

• ‘Siskiyou Blue’ (18 inches x 15 inches) prefers part shade in cooler

gardens.

• ‘Meerblau’ grows 8 inches x 12 inches, has blue-green foliage, and no

flowers.

• ‘Azurit’ has silver-blue foliage on 12-inch mounds.

• California Fescue (Festuca californica) is a 2-foot mound, silvery to

greenish blue with blue flowers.

• Atlas Fescue (F. mairei) produces 2½ foot-tall gray-green mounds.

• Do not plant tall fescue, Festuca arundinacea, in California. It is an

invasive weed.¢

‘Dinner Plate’ Aeonium

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 6

TROPICAL PLANTS of INTEREST

Monkeypod / RainTree

(Pithecellobium saman)

Source: Link:

https://www.na.fs.fed.us/pubs/silvics_manual/volume_2/pithecellobium/saman.htm

DESCRIPTION

Monkeypod tree (Pithecellobium saman), samán in Spanish, is a fast-

growing tree that has been introduced to many tropical countries through-

out the world from its native habitats in Central America and northern

South America.

The Hawaiian common name, Monkeypod, is used because it is a

logical derivation of the scientific name Pithecellobium (monkey earring in

Greek). Besides Monkeypod, Raintree, and Saman, which is its name

throughout Latin America, the tree is called Mimosa in the Philippines.

The most widely used common name for the species is Raintree, from

the belief that the tree produces rain at night. The leaflets close up at night

or when under heavy cloud cover, allowing rain to pass easily through the

crown. This trait may contribute to the frequently observed fact that grass

remains green under the trees in times of drought. However, the shading

effect of the crown, the addition of nitrogen to the soil by decomposition of

litter from this leguminous tree, and possibly, the sticky droppings of

cicada insects in the trees all contribute to this phenomenon.

In general, planted as a shade tree and ornamental, it has been

naturalized in many countries and is greatly valued in pastures as shade

for cattle. It has a spreading crown when grown, and it forms a long,

relatively straight stem when closely spaced. Its wood is highly valued in

some locations for carvings and furniture.

Monkeypod Flower

REPRODUCTION & EARLY GROWTH

... Flowering and Fruiting

The Monkeypod tree may flower at any time of the year in Hawaii, but it

usually flowers from April to August, with the peak of flowering occurring

in May, flowers are perfect and form in umbels. The clusters, with their

numerous pink stamens, 1.5 inches long, look like powder puffs in the

tree crown.

The flowers are insect-pollinated. Seedpods develop in from 6 to 8

months and fall to the ground intact, usually between December and

April in Hawaii. The dark brown and relatively straight pods are usually

6 to 8 inches long and contain from 5 to 20 seeds.

... Seed Production and Dissemination

Seeds are reddish-brown beans about 0.5 inches long that drop from

the pods when they open on the ground. Although the seeds are hard

coated and long lived, some germinate soon after moistening by soil

contact, resulting in a short period of prolific reproduction even under

lawn and garden trees. Most or all of the reproduction dies or is

destroyed by insects, rodents, and lawn mowing.

Seeds are easily collected by gathering pods on the ground and drying

them under cover until they open. Natural dissemination is by birds and

rodents.

... Vegetative Reproduction

The Monkeypod tree can be rooted in moist soil on a site without use of

mist or shade. In Honolulu, it is common practice to transplant huge

trees by cutting away almost all the roots and all the branches. Trees

grown at close spacing in the forest frequently have branch-free stems

13 to 16 feet tall and are transplanted to parking lots and parks as

"instant" full-size shade trees.

... Seedling Development

Seedlings are usually grown from seed planted in containers. In Hawaii,

polyethylene bags are now the most commonly used containers for this

purpose. Monkeypod seedlings have also been grown in seedbeds and

successfully planted bareroot in Hawaii, but not on a large scale.

SPECIAL USES

• Monkeypod wood has been reported as hard and heavy, and

sometimes difficult to work. The wood (shown above) is considered

easy to work, particularly because low shrinkage during drying allows it

to be machined while green.

• Articles made from green wood can be dried without serious drying

degrades. In Hawaii, Monkeypod has been the premier craftwood used

for carved and turned souvenir bowls since 1946. As labor costs

increased, however, the industry has spread to the Philippines and

Thailand, which now supply most of the Monkeypod bowls for which

Hawaii is famous.

• The pods contain a sweet edible pulp that supplies nutritious food for

animals. Children also chew on the pods, which have a licorice-like

flavor).

• Although the tree is commonly used as a shade tree in parking lots, it is

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 7

COMBATING WEEDS

Source: Link: http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/49weed01/

Any plant out of place can become a garden enemy. Here are

strategies for fighting the battle against weeds.

When you ask gardeners what their favorite part of gardening is,

most will tell you it’s enjoying the beautiful flowers and fresh vegetables.

What’s the worst part? Almost everyone agrees it’s weeding. Gardeners

are always looking for ways to get rid of weeds. And a good attack plan

has two prongs: 1) prevention, such as removing seedheads before

they develop or using a pre-emergent herbicide, and 2) removal,

pulling, digging or hoeing out established weeds or using an herbicide

to kill them.

Weeds can be divided into roughly two categories — annual and

perennial — with the difference being how they reproduce. They each

have a different life cycle. Once you know which a weed is, you can

determine the best way to control it.

As the old saying goes, “Seeds one year, weeds for seven.” If you

can prevent plants from producing seeds, you’ll have fewer to remove in

the future. But once they start, there are several ways to get rid of them.

The method depends on the weed, its maturity and its situation. Let me

show you how to plan the battle against weeds in your garden.

±Preventing Weeds

Close planting

shades the soil so seeds can’t sprout easily. Even

many creeping, perennial weeds don’t like the shade and competition

— they won’t spread into these areas. Leave enough space between

your plants so they just touch, as shown in the photo at the bottom of

Column One, and don’t compete with each other.

In open areas, such as flower or vegetable gardens, spreading

a pre-emergent herbicide helps. After it’s applied, make sure you

don’t disturb the barrier or weeds will be back. Corn gluten, the organic

pre-emergent control being scratched into the soil in the photo above,

won’t stop the spread of perennial runners or roots. It’ll last several

months depending on the product and weather conditions and releases

nitrogen into the soil as it breaks down.

Pulling weeds, as I’m doing in the photo above, before they produce

seeds is a good way to spend the afternoon. I call it “weeding therapy”

because it’s so satisfying once my garden is spotless and free of pesky

weeds. Just make sure to get every piece of root if your pulling

perennial weeds or they will regrow.

Thick Layer of Mulch

Article Continues on Page 8

The easiest way to deal with a

problem is to prevent it from

occurring. All weeds spread by

seeds. Some seeds can live for

many years in the soil. Every time

you till, you bring more of them to

the surface where sunlight prompts

them to sprout. Since seeds often

need light to sprout, one good way

to shade weeds out is with close

planting of ornamental plants.

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 8

Eradicating Weeds—Continued From Page 7

Even putting down a thick layer of mulch like the photo at the bottom

of Column Two on Page 7 will prevent weeds. Mulching shades the

surface of the soil and keeps weed seeds from germinating. Even if a

few seeds do happen to sprout, they can be easily pulled because the

soil underneath stays loose. It also helps conserve moisture and keep

the soil cooler on hot summer days. To be effective, it needs to be at

least two inches thick or have a weed-barrier fabric underneath. No

matter how diligent you are, weed seedlings and sprouts will appear

and get established in your garden somehow. That’s when it’s time to

begin removing weeds.

±Removing Weeds

Once a weed has sprouted, you have a few ways of dealing with it.

The sooner you catch it, the easier it will be to remove.

Hoeing is a quick and efficient way to remove tender, young

seedlings, especially annuals. It’ll slice them off just below the soil’s

surface so they can’t regrow. Working the hoe at the shallow angle

used in the photo at right won’t bring many more seeds to the surface,

ready to sprout. Notice how the hoe is almost parallel to the soil?

Be careful: Chopping into the soil deeper might expose more weed

seeds.

Digging works well for removing large, well-established weeds from

the ground. Aim the blade straight into the soil and pry the weed out.

Make sure to remove all of the roots of perennial weeds or they might

sprout and begin growing again.

Using herbicides is a better solution for weeds in a lawn or closely

planted perennial garden where pulling or digging may not be practical.

Make a wick like the one here from a rag wrapped around a stick to put

the herbicide just where you want it. You can saturate the rag and

carefully brush it over the weed without harming desirable plantings.

Spraying herbicides on seedlings that could be hoed or pulled is

probably overkill. On the flipside, once a perennial weed becomes

established, cutting off the top or pulling at it might not be enough.

Many have deep or extensive root systems.

±Life Cycles of Annual and Perennial Weeds

Annuals — In one season, a seed (A) sprouts. The seedling (B) grows

to maturity and flowers (C). After it flowers, the seeds ripen (D) and the

plant dies. Seeds drop to the ground and the process starts over again

when soil conditions are right.

Perennials — Just like annuals, perennials can spread by seed (A, B

and C). But roots or runners from the parent plant can also sprout (D).

They go dormant in winter (E). The following spring they grow (F), reach

maturity, send out more runners and spread more seed.¢

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 9

‘Bugsy’ Miniature Dwarf Bearded Hybrid Iris

DYNAMIC DWARFS

Source: GardenGate eNotes

Don’t miss out on all that dwarf plants have to offer! First of all,

they fit into just about any garden scheme. Since they’re smaller, you

can get more plants into the same space as one or two regular-sized

ones. Just think about the color impact that’ll have. And many dwarfs

are especially suited for containers. They’re lower maintenance, too

— you’ll never have to stake them.

‘Bugsy’ (shown above) flowers early, often at the same time as

some early to midspring-blooming bulbs. Feed it with a light

application of bone meal, super-phosphate or a 6-10-10 fertilizer in

very early spring and again about a month after it blooms. It’s perfect

in a rock garden or at the front of a border.

Type: Rhizome

Blooms: Bright yellow, falls (lower petals) have a

burgundy thumbprint in early spring

Light: Full sun

Soil: Rich, well-drained

Size: 6 to 9 in. tall, 5 to 8 in. wide

Cold-hardy: USDA zones 3 to 8

Heat-tolerant: AHS zones 8 to 1

Source: Schreiner’s Iris Gardens

‘Professor Anton Kippenberg’ Aster

(Aster novi-belgii)

Unlike a lot of asters that need staking, this one does fine even if you

ignore it. And since it doesn’t get rangy, you don’t need to cut it back early in

the season.

Grow ‘Professor Anton Kippenberg’ at a woodland’s edge, or if it’s in a

container, transplant into the garden in late fall.

Type: Perennial

Blooms: Pale purple flowers with bright orange centers from late

summer to midfall

Light: Full sun to part shade

Soil: Well-drained

Size: 12 to 16 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide

Cold-hardy: USDA zones 3 to 9

Heat-tolerant: AHS zones 9 to 1

Source: Joy Creek Nursery

‘Lilliput’ Astilbe

(Astilbe x crispa)

Plant ‘Lilliput’ in a woodland or shade garden, but don’t deadhead it — the

seedheads add winter interest. In summer, this deer- and rabbit-resistant

Astilbe attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. It likes rich soil, though, so

add a couple of inches of compost around the plant in fall.

Type: Perennial

Blooms: Plumes of salmon pink flowers from early to midsummer

Light: Part sun to full shade

Soil: Moist, humusy

Size: 6 to 8 in. tall, 8 to 12 in. wide

Cold-hardy: USDA zones 4 to 9

Heat-tolerant: AHS zones 9 to 1

Source: Bluestone Perennials, Inc.¢

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 10

‘Painted Lady’ Butterfly

Photo: Courtesy of Jeff Anderson

Winged Wonders of Doña Ana County

Author: S. Derrickson Moore

Las Cruces Sun News | August 18, 2016

Butterflies flutter through our gardens and our summertime lives. And

they love New Mexico, which attracts more butterfly species than any

other state but Texas and Arizona.

The fascinating, glamorous creatures that brighten our days are winged

workers who help pollinate crops and our gardens.

They are the stuff of myths and legends and serve as inspirational

symbols for many of the world’s religions, not surprising when you

consider that the average butterfly is born again, and again and again.

“A butterfly goes through what is known as a complete metamorphosis

cycle. You could say that it is born four times,” said butterfly expert Justin

Van Zee. He’s a soil biologist for the Jornada Experimental Range and

board member for the Asombro Institute for Science Education, which

sponsors the annual Butterfly Flutterby at Chihuahuan Desert Nature Park,

northeast of Las Cruces.

“There are four different stages. The adult lays eggs which can winter

over or be in that state for some time. Then there’s the larva (caterpillar),

and the pupa or chrysalis (the hard skin which appears after the

caterpillar’s final shedding of its skin). One day something triggers the

emergence of the adult. When is a butterfly born? It’s easy to say for a

mammal, but which of the four stages is the birth of the butterfly?” Van

Zee mused.

New Mexico Ranking

A question that’s easier to answer is our state’s ranking when it comes

to myriad butterfly species.

“In New Mexico, 325 species of butterflies have been documented,

which puts us in third place in the United States, behind Arizona (364

species) and Texas (475 species),” said Van Zee, noting that there are

several ways of counting. “There is a group of butterflies that are residents

year-round, plus an additional group that are ‘strays,’ those that fly through

or are discovered around borders yet don’t fulfill their life cycle in the state.

“Various sources have documented up to 336 species, and we seem to

have a clear advantage over fourth-place Colorado (287 species).

A ‘Variegated Fritillary’ Butterfly

Photo: Courtesy of Brad Cooper

What lures butterflies to the Land of Enchantment?

“There are many factors that contribute to the high numbers of butterfly

species in New Mexico. We’re a relatively large state (ranked fifth in size),

elevation ranges from 3,000 to 13,160 feet, with many life zones and

precipitation range; many land regions are represented (Great Plains,

southern Rockies, Colorado Plateau, Chihuahuan desert) with proximity to

other highly diverse regions nearby (Sonoran to the west and Mexico/Sierra

Madre to the south)," Van Zee said.

"New Mexico is still largely rural and undeveloped, with rangeland, forest,

and drainage basins still mostly intact. And 18 species have been

documented in every one of New Mexico’s 33 counties, which is impressive

because of the incredibly wide range of environmental conditions.”

A Phoblisora Catulus (Common Sootywing) Butterfly

Photo: Courtesy of Brad Cooper

Butterfly Central

Of 126 species recorded in Doña Ana County, North American Butterfly

Association Butterfly Count volunteers have reported 76 species in a 12-mile

radius circle centered on Oñate High School on the East Mesa of Las

Cruces. The count, taken annually on one Saturday in early August, covers a

16-year period.

“That’s pretty impressive for such a short amount of time and a relatively

small area,” Van Zee said. Though August is technically prime time for

butterflies, conditions vary from year to year.

“Adults feed on nectar to be able to breed. They like blue flowered plants

in general. The bee bush is a pretty common shrub there and attracts a lot of

insects, bees and butterflies. They like the yellowish plants, too, like

desert marigold. Places like Dripping Springs that have a lot of diversity

are hot spots for butterflies. When we have good rains we get a pretty

good number of butterflies,” Van Zee said.

Article Continues on Page 11

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 11

Winged Wonders of DAC (Continued From Page 10)

Juliet Williams, DAC Certified MG

And dry years like this one can mean fewer sightings of the lovely

insect. “It’s been a bad year in my garden. Things are drying up and right

now, nothing is flowering and there are no butterflies,” Juliette Williams of

Las Cruces reported in early August, noting that rains and subsequent

blossoms rapidly increase butterfly traffic.

Williams is a longtime member of Doña Ana County Master Gardeners.

She uses a lot of native plants and designs her garden to appeal to a

variety of critters.

“Since 2005, I’ve been planning for butterflies, hummingbirds and

wildlife in general. I think it’s better to feed the animals naturally than to

have to put out feeders for them. I’m fascinated by how animals know

what they can and can’t eat,” Williams said.

“Butterflies like flowers that are many flowers in one, like the butterfly

bush, false indigo and lantana. They can land and feed from each flower

without expending energy. They have to work too hard to get much if they

have to go long distances between individual flowers,” she said.

“I’ve brought in things like the Boothill plant, which is covered with pale

blue flowers, which butterflies love. I’ve seen Boothill plants covered like a

carpet with Painted Lady butterflies,” said Williams, a former school

teacher who enjoys sharing her knowledge with others.

If you’d like to learn more about butterflies and the gardens that attract

them, Van Zee, other butterfly experts, Williams and members of the

Master Gardeners are on hand every year to answer questions at the

Annual Butterfly Flutterby at the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Park, 56501

N. Jornada Road.

Activities include the Life Cycle Maze, Build a Butterfly game, the

Butterfly Identification Relay, making a butterfly necklace, face painting,

and a bucket auction. Admission is $3. For information, call 575-524-3334

or visit www.asombro.org, the website of Asombro Institute for Science

Education, a nonprofit organization dedicated to increasing scientific

literacy by fostering an understanding of the Chihuahuan Desert.

Scorpionflies:

These Are Harmless Insects Despite Their Scary Look

Bill Johnson | Horticulture Magazine | May/June 2016

An insect’s life basically revolves around two activities: Doing what it

can to eat, and doing what it can to not be eaten. To illustrate this, let’s

look at the Scorpionfly.

Scorpionflies, of which there are more than 50 North American

species, fall into the family Panorpidae and the order Mecoptera (which

contains four other North American families of unique insects, too.)

Scorpionflies cover most the eastern half of the United States, from

Canada to Texas, eastward to the Atlantic. They can be found mid-

summer in and near moist woodland areas and amid tall grass and

shrubs. The larvae feed on dead animals as well as dead grubs and

caterpillars. That feeding behavior continues into the adult stage;

they’re not known to go after live prey. (The other four native families

within the Mecoptera prey on live insects.)

Scorpionflies, which can be a half or three-quarters of an inch long,

possess a couple of distinctive clues for identification—namely, the front

end and the back end. It’s actually a beak that contains chewing

mouthparts at the tip. You’ll also notice large oval eyes and long

antennae. (To me, this falls into the category of a “face only a mother

can love.”)

The other striking body part, found at the other end, can be easily

confused for a Scorpion’s tail at quick glance. That actually the male

genitalia, which are recurved and bulbous and totally harmless—this

insect cannot sting.

The female’s abdomen narrows to a point and doesn’t curve at all.

The brown wings show very striking patterns of black spots and lines.

They’re long, equaling the length of the body.

Obviously, the tail’s close resemblance to a Scorpion’s stinger could

be a defensive tactic that scares off a predator. This is true of the Deep

South, anyway, but I’ve always wondered how it makes sense in the

northern States. No Scorpions there!

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 12

Merlin Bird ID App

Cornell Lab of Ornithology

Free (Android & Apple)

Link: http://merlin.allaboutbirds.org/?gclid=CJyDipvpj9ICFRFrfgodKc0Elg

Description

What's that bird? Merlin Bird ID helps you solve the mystery in five

questions, or with a photo of a bird.

First, Merlin asks you a few simple questions. Then, almost like magic, it

reveals the list of birds that best match your description. Pick your bird, then

delve into more photos, sounds, and ID tips about your bird!

If you have a photo, Merlin can help there as well. Take a photo, or choose

one from your photo gallery, and Merlin will offer a list of birds that best match

your photo.

Merlin is fun and easy to use—whether you’re curious about a bird you’ve

seen once or you’re hoping to identify every bird that comes to your feeder

The answers are waiting for you with this free app from the renowned Cornell

Lab of Ornithology.

Features

• Merlin will now identify a photo. Select your photo, tell Merlin where and when you

took it, and you'll see a short list of suggested identifications.

• Download bird packs containing the species of your region, reducing the app size.

• Created for beginning and intermediate bird watchers, Merlin identifies the 650 most

common bird species in the United States and Canada (excluding Hawaii).

• Intelligent results. No more scanning through hundreds of possibilities! Merlin shows

the birds near you that fit your description.

• Customized location and date tools generate best answers for your neighborhood

and time of year.

• Powered by eBird to deliver the most accurate results based on millions of sightings

from bird watchers across North America

• Enjoy more than 3,000 photos of birds, including males, females, and juveniles.

• Learn ID tips from Cornell Lab of Ornithology experts.

• Listen to beautiful bird songs and calls from the Macaulay Library at the Cornell Lab

of Ornithology.

• It’s all free! The Cornell Lab of Ornithology’s goal is to help you and millions of

others to learn about birds.

• Merlin Bird ID currently includes Bird Pack downloads for the U.S. including:

Northeast, Southeast, Midwest, Rocky Mountains, Southwest, Texas and

Oklahoma, Alaska, and West Coast. Canada is covered by Eastern Canada and

Western Canada packs.

What's New in Version 1.2.1

Merlin 1.2.1 includes many behind-the-scenes tweaks and fixes that pave the way for

new features and Bird Packs in the near future including:

- Spanish language support

- New map legend to support upcoming Bird Packs

GARDENING WITH LESS WATER

Low-Tech, Low-Cost Techniques;

Use up to 90% Less Water in Your Garden

By David A. Bainbridge

Storey Publishing | December 29, 2015 | Paperback

Are you facing drought or water shortages? Gardening with Less

Water offers simple, inexpensive, low-tech techniques for watering

your garden much more efficiently — using up to 90 percent less

water for the same results.

With illustrated step-by-step instructions, David Bainbridge shows

you how to install buried clay pots and pipes, wicking systems, and

other porous containers that deliver water directly to a plant’s roots

with little to no evaporation. These systems are available at

hardware stores and garden centers; are easy to set up and use;

and work for garden beds, container gardens, and trees.

Sources: Amazon.com & Storey Publishing

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 13

Honey-Do List for February 2017

GENERAL: February is typically a transition month; the worst of winter is over, theoretically. Finish up last month’s chores and cool-season

planting. Add the following to your list of tasks:

ORNAMENTALS

• Sow seeds of perennial and hardy annual wildflowers such as columbine, penstemon, dianthus, candytuff,

larkspur, pansies, stock, and Johnny jump-ups. Later in the month check nurseries for transplants of these

and other favorites.

• Start caladium tubers indoors for transplant later.

• Leave any frost-killed foliage and branches on landscape plants—this will protect the base of the plant, which

should re-sprout.

• Scatter wildflower seeds including blue flax (Linum lewisii) firecracker penstemon (Penstemon eatonii), lemon

beebalm (Monarda austromontana) and Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus).

FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES

• Fertilize citrus and fruit trees on Valentine’s Day.

• Continue to plant pines and bareroot deciduous trees and shrubs (e.g. apples, apricots, Asian pears,

peaches, pears, persimmons, plums and pluots.) Most desert-adapted trees can be planted toward the end

of the month, but do not plant any species that are frost-tender until all danger of frost is past (late

March/early April).

• Water established trees once during the month unless winter rains have been abundant. Water newly planted

trees every three weeks during the winter. Provide enough water to soak to a depth of three feet.

• Mesquites may ooze a black, sticky sap in late winter. This is normal and there is rare concern for alarm.

• Harvest pecans and pick up fallen fruit to prevent pest damage.

• Pick off just enough citrus fruit to eat, leaving the rest on the tree to increase their sweetness.

VEGETABLES, FRUIT & HERBS

• Plant cool-season crops such as carrots, onions, parsnips, radishes, English peas, snow peas, fava

beans, garbanzo beans, lettuces and other green leafy vegetables after mid-month.

• Sow seeds of beets, bok choy, carrots, lettuces, radishes and spinach directly in to the ground.

• Sow seeds of peppers and tomatoes in a warm, bright spot outdoors.

• Start seeds of summer vegetables indoors then transplant outdoors when threat of frost has

passed.

• Sow seeds of chives, cilantro, dill and parsley. Plant marjoram, oregano, rosemary and sage.

• Sow seeds of snow peas by midmonth; and all month, sow Swiss chard and turnips, and beets, green onion, and peas.

LAWNS / TURF / ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

• Relax! Warm-season grasses are dormant and cool-season grasses are quiet;

no need to mow or fertilize this month.

• Water lawns at least once a month—twice a month may be preferable depending

on soil type, temperature, wind, rain and quality of turf desired.

Much of our suggested garden task information comes directly from Month-by-Month Gardening in the Desert

Southwest by Mary Irish (2002). We wanted you to know that this is an outstanding gardening resource book. Also,

some of our recommendations come from Southwest Planting Tips by the Month and the Tucson Gardening Calendar

both of which are produced by the Tucson Botanical Gardens. Another resource used in our Honey-Do Lists is The

Desert Gardener’s Calendar: Your Month-by-Month Guide by George Brookbank (1999.) Recommendations from

Sunset Magazine’s monthly Southwest Garden Guides may also be included.

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 14

Honey-Do List for February 2017—Continued

CACTI & SUCCULENTS

• Continue to plant cool-season succulents outside.

• Apply quarter-strength liquid fertilizer every second watering to actively growing

succulents in containers. Do not fertilize any plant that is dormant or is a warm-season

grower.

• Water winter-growing succulents every 10-14 days to a depth of 4”-6” for large plants

and 3”-4” for smaller plants.

• If frost is predicted, cover aloe flower stalks with frost cloth—the plant won’t bloom

again until the following year if the candelabra-like stalks freeze.

Some of the above recommendations came from the Tucson Botanical Garden’s monthly “Calendar of Care” for cacti and succulents.

ROSES

• Prune bush roses before St. Valentine’s Day, but wait until after spring bloom to prune climbers.

• Renew a regular fertilization schedule for established roses mid-month.

• Water established roses weekly to a depth of 16”-18”. It is more important to water deeply than to

water often.

• Unless you have been fertilizing on a six-week schedule during the winter, do not fertilize roses this

month.

• Begin to plan which new roses you’d like to plant in your garden in late March or early April after the

danger of freezing has passed.

It’s always important to correctly identify any pest or insect you suspect may have caused damage to your plants. If you do not know what

the culprit is, collect one in a plastic bag or small jar and take it to the Doña Ana County (DAC) Cooperative Extension Office that is now

located at 1170 North Solano Street, Suite M, in Las Cruces (at the corner of Spruce & Solano Streets.)

Our new Hotline Office is located in Room 1833 in Suite M. Our Hotline number remains the same. (575) 525.6649

MISCELLANEOUS

• Rake up fallen leaves and clean up perennial beds to discourage disease and insect problems later

in the year.

• Continue to weed regularly to keep beds tidy and plants properly spaced.

• Add leaves and grass clippings to the compost pile.

• Begin removing extra mulch applied to insulate delicate plants but be prepared with a sheet or towel

in case temperatures dip too low.

• Keep everything well watered. Spring winds are brutal. Foundation plants, turf, and ornamentals all

need extra care.

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 15

REMINDER!

Our February monthly MG meeting was held on:

Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Next MG Monthly Meeting scheduled for:

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Location: Branigan Library, Roadrunner Room

Our meeting time is 9:15am to 11:30am

FEBRUARY 2017 MG BIRTHDAYS

(Active MG’s & Interns)

★ Nancy Breard ★ Tracey Thompson

In order to reduce the chances of Identity Theft for our MG’s,

exact birthdate info will no longer be printed in our Magazine.

GOT IDEAS? If you have a gardening-related article or a

suggestion about a Plant-of-the-Month, a vegetable or

fruit, tree, invasive plant or weed to share for our MG

Magazine, please send me a link or email your idea to

me.

MG CONTACT INFORMATION Be sure your email

address is current so that you will be able to receive

important information throughout the month from the MG

Program. I regularly update our MG Contact List. If you

need a copy of this file, let me know.

MG MAGAZINE DEADLINE The deadline for submitting

articles and information for inclusion in our March 2017

MG Monthly Magazine will be Tuesday, February 28,

2017

Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor

[email protected]

(575) 640-7177

Please see Page 26 for information about the

NMSU Plant Diagnostics Clinic

2017 Special Event Notices

Organic Farming Conference (Albuquerque) Feb. 17-18

Veggie Seedling Sale (NMSU-Gerald Thomas Lobby) March 1

(kale, cauliflower, lettuces, spinach, nasturtiums & pak choi)

Home & Garden Show (Las Cruces) March 3-5

Pecan Food Fantasy (Las Cruces) March 5

High Desert Gardening & Landscaping Conf. March 8-10

(Sierra Vista, AZ) Registration due by Feb. 21

Link: https://cals.arizona.edu/cochise/mg/high-desert-conference

... $75 for one day; $110 for both days

SunSCAPE: Gardening the Sensible Way (El Paso) March 11

$35 registration – due by March 10th

Landscape Maintenance Workshop (Las Cruces) March 30

International Master Gardener Conf. (Portland, OR) July 10-14

For more info, contact DAC Cooperative Ext. Office: (575) 525.6649

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 16

Crop Planning for the Kitchen Garden

A crop plan is the foundation of a successful gardening season.

Article Provided By Darrol Shillingburg, DAC Certified MG

What is a Crop Plan?

A Crop Plan is an important part of farm planning and operations. Market gardeners and those operations running a CSA also use one. The Plan

varies from farm to farm and can be very inclusive with spacing and harvest data or it can be used in conjunction with other record-keeping document.

Seldom will you find a Crop Plan used by home gardeners. However, if you are seriously growing for your own table, a Crop Plan will increase your

efficiency, reduce your gardening time and put a more steady harvest on the table.

Why is it important?

If you are like most people you eat every day, more that once a day and thus need to harvest from the garden nearly every day or depend on the

grocery store. True, most food crops can be harvested and preserved for future use, but many can be timed for use by multiple planting throughout the

season.

It will also help you plan your rotations for a healthier garden. A Crop Plan will inform your seed purchasing decision as well as help you manage

your use of gardening time. From your Crop Plan, you can see immediately what tasks you need to do each week and can schedule them on your

calendar, with reminders, to assist you in keeping on track throughout the season.

A Crop Plan will also increase your garden production, by planting sequentially within the plan. In addition, if you track actual timing and production

data and modify your crop each year, it will become a personalized and indispensible document that improves your garden each season, not to mention

making gardening less time consuming.

If your garden consists of a few tomato and pepper plants that you purchase as transplants, a Crop Plan may not be for you. However, remember to

consult the planting chart for the best planting windows.

What is included in a Crop Plan?

So, if you would benefit from a Crop Plan and want to proceed, here is the process that I use. My Crop Plan is a simplified version of what farmers

would need, because my garden operation is less complicated and can almost be run from memory.

The information that I want included in my Crop Plan includes:

• Variety (named as a generic or a specific cultivar)

• Bed space to be used (that's not always known and sometimes not relevant)

• Days to maturity - critical information for a meaningful crop plan

• Amount to plant - (based on experience growing for a family of two adults. The listed number of six packs and pots is used only for seed

starting. I may pot up two or three 6 packs from one 6 pack of started seed)

• Planting window - (nearly all of my planting is done from seed - your windows may differ some)

• Pot up window - (again based on my experience with growing under lights in my sunroom - your timing may be different)

• Transplanting window - (based on personal experience and seasonally dependent)

• Harvest window - often the most difficult to calculate because of seasonal variation. I use a long harvest window for most crops because the

harvest is for the table, not for the market.

My kitchen garden Crop Plan is divided into 12 months (I eat and garden all months of the year.) Each month is divided into four sections, roughly

equaling weeks. The first week of the month is highlighted in light grey for easy recognition. The current week is highlighted in color for visual ease. To

identify what tasks to include in the current week all I need to do is check that column. The Crop Plan for 2017 has about 75 planting events covering

50 varieties. During the year I will enter the exact planting, pot up, transplanting and harvest dates and adjust the plan next year with that refined

information. Each year the Plan will become easier to create and more accurate.

Article Continues on Page 17

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 17

How can I find out more about Crop Plans?

If you want to know more about Crop Plans, a web search of "crop plan documents" will give you many ideas of what else to include and how

sophisticated to make your own plan. There are Crop Plans templates and crop plan software available from the web. They are all designed for

farmers, market gardeners and growers for CSA's and are a lot more sophisticated that what I need. Most are created in Microsoft Excel for the

spreadsheet function. My plan uses Microsoft Word table function because there are no numerical calculations involved. (My harvest-tracking

document is in Excel)

For additional information the PennState Extension publication, "Crop Planning for CSA's" does a review of Crop Plans that they recommend, as

well as other plans available over the web. (http://extension.psu.edu/business/start-farming/news/2013/crop-planning-for-csas)

Since my Crop Plan covers the entire gardening year (365 days) in Las Cruces is may meet most of your needs and can be easily modified.. If you

would like to use it or start with a template of the plan (without content), email me and I will send it to you. The document is in rtf. format and will run

in any word processing program. darr[email protected]

Tracking the dates and volume of your garden harvest is an important adjunct activity to developing and improving a Crop Plan. I will cover that

subject in upcoming article.

I hope this assists you in creating a more productive and less time-consuming food garden that meets your nutritional needs throughout the year.

Good gardening and good eating,

Darrol Shillingburg

Doña Ana County Master Gardener

[email protected]

"Eating is an agricultural act", Wendell Berry

If you have comments or questions, please feel free to contact me at: darrols@comcast.com

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 18

How To Start Seeds:

18 Confidence-Building Tips

Source: A Way To Garden.com

Becoming a confident seed starter unlocks a garden of possibilities; you

can try your hand at anything offered in any catalog, no longer limited by the

local garden center’s palette. As daunting as it may seem, remember this: In

nature, seeds sow themselves successfully–usually emerging when the soil’s

moist and starting to warm up, then enjoying fresh air and plenty of sunshine,

with hopefully just enough rain.

Following my 18 simple seed-starting tips below will take you to more detail,

or to examples of the gear I use. I also have an FAQ page of seed-related

questions and answers, if something’s not covered here, plus how-to links for

some popular vegetables at the bottom of this page.

Details of spacing and depth are not included, since they vary by crop. Your

seed packet (or better yet, the company’s website it came from) may offer

specifics. My basic guidance: Except with large seeds like peas and beans

and squash, which I direct sow outdoors and deeper, I make a shallow

depression or furrow, press the seed gently in, and lightly cover it with more

medium.

Cheat sheet: If you’re only going to do one thing on the list to improve your

seed-starting results, focus on the light. Too little light is the most common

reason for seed-sowing failure by home gardeners, making tip Number

12 probably the key advice of all.

18 Tips For Starting Seeds

1) Don’t be in a rush. Get your timing right for each crop (this free, printable

Seed Starting Calculator is one way to pinpoint dates).

2) Don’t be cheap; buy fresh seed if there’s any doubt. Check on average

viability (in years) of a given type of leftover seed, but also ask yourself

how well you really cared for it. Seed is alive (but not if you left it in the

hot, humid garage all summer).

3) Don’t use just any old potting soil; some brands may be too coarse,

especially for smaller seeds. A fresh bag of sterile medium labeled

“germination mix” or “seed-starting mix” is a safer bet.

4) Cleanliness counts. When re-using flats, trays, cells, and pots, wash with

a dilute bleach solution (1:10 bleach: water) or at least hot, soapy water,

if you wish to skip the bleach.

5) Do pre-moisten the mix before putting in flats or cells, so it’s barely moist

and no longer powdery dust. As I said: barely moist, just to take the edge

off; not sodden! Trick: If working indoors, I just run water from the

kitchen-sink sprayer into the plastic soil bag ahead of time; massage and

turn the bag to distribute; then repeat a few times.

6) Do use bottom heat, from a germinating mat, and a dome lid or plastic

wrap to create a “germination chamber” of around 70F…

7) But don’t leave the mat plugged in, or the lid on, once the plants have

emerged. Seedlings generally don’t like it as warm, or moist, as seeds

trying to sprout do.

8) Don’t let seeds dry out before they germinate (a recipe for death!)…

9) But don’t overwater once they do. Water requirements drop dramatically

as soon as they’re up and growing, when letting the soil go slightly dry

between waterings is generally the best practice.

10) Do invest in a watering device that’s gentle enough for seeds and

seedlings. (The mister I use cost a whopping $16; I also use a turkey

baster and cream pitcher, among other improvised tools. If watering with

a garden hose, a breaker nozzle like the Dramm Lemonhead is

recommended.)

11) Don’t skimp on light once seedlings have emerged, or anytime thereafter.

(Don’t be surprised if they get spindly if you do.) To be perfectly clear: No

windowsill growing!

12) Do take advantage of fair days outside to make up for the limitations of

artificial light; I carry my seedlings outside by day. Even closely spaced,

super-efficient T5 bulbs might put out just one-fourth to one-fifth the

light of a clear day in May outdoors, where the occasional breeze will

also help toughen plants up. Between indoor and outdoor light sources, I

like my plants to have 12 hours’ worth daily. (The T5 lights I use.)

13) Do direct-sow crops suited to it…but not unless you are committed to

keeping the seedbed free from weeds that can outcompete tiny emerging

seedlings. (One expert kale grower explains why she transplants, despite

how easy kale is to sow directly outside.)

14) Don’t rush to transplant, especially with warm-season crops like

tomatoes, peppers, eggplants. Nothing is gained by making them shiver

before the weather really settles, and much can be lost in the wildest

spring weather.

15) Don’t transplant seedlings into the open garden that haven’t been

hardened off gradually, with a few hours a day outdoors over a week or

so before to allow for acclimation.

16) Do sow extra, and do “cull the herd” by discarding any weak or “off-type”

seedlings at any stage of the process. More is not better if they are runts.

One expert seed-farmer friend even starts her careful selection process

even before sowing, discarding the smallest seeds from each packet.

Give yourself the best chance for success with a bit of ruthlessness.

17) Do plan for succession sowings of many crops, sowing only a short row

every couple of weeks and avoiding 40 servings of lettuce or 10 pounds

of green beans in a single day’s harvest. Take advantage of both cool

ends of the season to repeat sowing certain crops, such as peas.

18) Don’t blame yourself for every failure. Old seed or poorly stored seed or

just crappy seed can outsmart your best efforts. Sometimes seed was

viable (had the ability to germinate) but lacked sufficient vigor (the ability

to thrive). Learn the difference. And then you have the weather to invoke

as the guilty party. This is gardening, remember? We can always blame

the weather, and then try again.¢

Article Provided By Darrol Shillingburg, DAC Certified MG

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 19

Coyotes (Canis latrines)

Source: Wildlife Notes, New Mexico Game & Fish

Adaptive and Opportunistic In the early 1900s, Coyotes were found only

across the Great Plains, but during the last century humans have changed

the environment. As urban and agricultural developments have increased

and natural predators been eliminated, the Coyote has adapted. Today,

Coyotes can be found in almost every urban, rural and wild habitat in

North America.

Description Coyotes are one of the most vocal North American canids,

having a wide vocabulary of yips, barks and howls. Often confused with

wolves, Coyotes can be distinguished by their smaller size, more

elongated muzzle and more pointed and prominent ears. The light-

colored, thick fur of a Coyote can mask its more delicate bone structure

and sometimes give it an appearance of being larger than it actually is.

Adults weigh 20–40 pounds, and males are slightly heavier than

females. Overall body lengths vary between 48–60 inches, and tails

measure approximately 16 inches.

Diet Coyotes are opportunistic. Readily eating carrion, fruit, seeds, berries

or insects, they also will prey on a variety of mammals. Favoring rabbits,

voles and mice, Coyotes will prey on deer, but usually only first-year fawns

or an occasional feeble or infirm adult. Coyotes can be livestock predators

and may target domestic pets, such as cats and dogs in urban locales.

Territory and Marking Coyotes are social, living in packs of 3–8

members. Each pack maintains a territory that can be relatively small, 2–3

square miles, but may span up to 40–50 square miles. Regardless of the

size of the territory, each pack maintains an intensely guarded core zone

where members predominantly reside. Marking territory with a scent from

fecal or urine deposits and anal-sac secretions, Coyotes communicate

with one another, other packs and with their predator neighbors. Scent

marking helps avoid confrontations over resources and maintains pack

integrity

Coyotes have two anal musk glands, one on each side of the sphincter,

that secrete a strong smelling, pasty liquid to personally identify individuals

and packs.

Family Life

One mated and monogamous pair forms the nucleus of each

pack of 3–8 coyotes. Also known as the alpha pair, this dominant pair are

the only animals in the pack that breed.

Mating occurs in early February. Following a gestation period of 60–63

days, pups are born to the dominant couple from late April to early May.

The female gives birth in a den, usually modified or enlarged by the adults

from existing natural shelter, such as a hollow log or abandoned burrow.

Coyote pups are born blind and helpless and cannot open their eyes for

about 10 days. The pups emerge from the den in 2–3 weeks after birth.

Usually, each pack has two or more young adults to protect their territory

and help the nursing mother. Most often, these are siblings from the

previous year who did not leave the pack when adulthood was reached.

Young Coyotes will also disperse, meet other wandering Coyotes and

eventually form new packs. While the alpha female cares for the new

pups, other members of the pack may care for the mother—bringing her

food, babysitting and even helping move pups to another den. A pack’s

core area frequently contains several den sites. Pups may be moved

several times a week to lessen parasites that often infest dens and to

avoid discovery by potential enemies.

Fewer than half of all Coyote pups live to see their first birthday. For

those who do, the pack undergoes a social reorganization and internal

shuffle in fall. Some of the pups disperse to become nomads, while others

remain and become helpers for the following spring.

Non-Protected Coyotes are abundant in many parts of New Mexico — a

result of their high intelligence and amazing ability to adapt to a variety of

habitats. A non-protected furbearer, Coyotes may be legally hunted and

trapped without restrictions by residents year-round. Nonresidents must

purchase a license.¢

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 20

Winter Care for Your Houseplants

National Gardening Association

Link: https://garden.org/celebratingtheseasons/?page=winter-care

Article Provided By Dale Petzold, DAC Certified MG

Winter Care for your Houseplants

Everyone needs a little R and R, and for houseplants winter is the

time to get it. Daylight is dramatically reduced, the air is dry, and

temperatures are cool — not the perfect growing conditions. Follow

these tips to keep your houseplants in shape through the winter.

Watering

Remember these words: neglect with respect. Simply put, most

houseplants don't need as much water during the winter season. Once

a week test the moisture level (if the soil is dry at a 2-inch depth the

plant needs water). Water thoroughly and allow the water to drain

completely. If the plant has a saucer, dump any excess water after an

hour or so. Obviously, there are certain plants that prefer being moist at

all times. If you don't know what your plants require, do some Googling.

Fertilization

Houseplants, like people, need food to perform, especially when they

are actively growing. Spring and summer are necessary feeding

months; however during the winter, feeding is not necessary. If you do

fertilize, do it sparingly. Dilute the fertilizer by 50 percent or more. Once

you see the plant setting new growth (typically in late February or

March) you may start feeding again.

Other Tips:

• Most houseplants prefer daytime temperatures of 65° to 75°F, and

night temperatures of 60° to 65°F.

• Keep houseplants away from cold drafts, vents, and radiators.

• Watch that foliage doesn't touch windows.

• Many houseplants prefer a humidity level of 40 to 50 percent.

Humidifiers are an option for increasing humidity in your home.

Contrary to popular belief, misting houseplants does not raise

humidity.

• Fill a large saucer with gravel and add water to raise the humidity

around the plant. (Be sure the bottom of the pot is not sitting in

water.)

• Don't repot in winter. Wait until new growth appears in the spring.¢

Keeping the plants clean

Winter is a great time to do some

housecleaning on your plants. Removing

accumulated dust and debris helps the plant

breathe and look good. Also, a good cleaning

will help wash away any unwanted pests.

A simple bubble bath by hand is all it

takes. Be sure the water is tepid and use a

very diluted solution of liquid dishwashing

soap and water. Place the plant in a sink and

sponge off the leaves with the warm soapy

water. Finish by wiping the leaves once more

with clean water. You can place larger plants

in the shower to sponge off the leaves. Then

use the showerhead to rinse the leaves!

Allow the plant to drain thoroughly before

returning it to its original location.

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 21

HEALING HERBS & PLANTS

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

12 Healing Herbs You Need To Grow In Your Medicinal Garden

Sierra Bright | November 20, 2015

This herb is worth growing for the delightful fragrance of its tiny

flowers alone, but it can be used therapeutically as a pick-me-up.

Inhaling the fragrance of the flowers is sufficient to get relief from

headache and depression. The essential oil extracted from the

flowers has an important place in aromatherapy.

Add a handful of lavender flowers to the bathwater or place

pouches of dried flowers under the pillow to get relaxed sleep. Make

the best of the antiseptic and antibacterial properties of Lavender by

infusing the flowers in water and using it to wash face and damaged

skin. It can clear acne and accelerate wound healing.

² ² ²

7 HEALTH BENEFITS OF LAVENDER

Link: https://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/herbs-and-

spices/lavender.html

Some of the most important health benefits of Lavender include its

ability to relieve stress, improve mood, promote restful sleep, reduce

inflammation, lower skin irritation, prevent infections, eliminate

dandruff, and soothe stomach bloating.

Nearly forty plants with the Mint family are technically classified as

Lavender, although the most common version of lavender is

Lavandula angustifolia, which is the variety on which the color

“lavender” is based.

This genus of flowering plants is found in Europe, Africa, the

Mediterranean, and parts of Asia, as well as other small corners of

the “Old World”. The reason that it is so widely used is its massive

range of applications, from food and fragrance to cosmetics and

herbal medicine; this plant is chock full of essential oils that can have

powerful effects on the human body, as well as one of the most

unique and beloved scents in the world.

One of the problems with lavender is that it can grow and spread

quickly, which is why it is actually considered a weed in certain parts of the

world, particularly if that varietal isn’t one of those prized for their scent.

Lavender Essential Oil is highly sought after and widely available. As a

culinary element, Lavender is used in salad dressings, honey, sauces,

beverages, various teas, and as a flavoring spice for a number of other

cultural dishes. The scent and flavor is wonderful, but the real bonus of

Lavender comes from its health benefits, which we will explore in greater

detail below.

Health Benefits Of Lavender

... Anxiety and Stress: There are a number of methods to use Lavender to

soothe anxiety and stress. The natural organic compounds in the leaves

and flowers of Lavender can be ground between the fingers and then

rubbed into the temples. This topical application can soothe the body

and mind, relieving anxious thoughts and balancing out mood. Aside

from this topical application of the flowers themselves, you can also

brew Lavender tea and achieve much the same effect. The antioxidant

components of Lavender can impact the endocrine system of the body

to lower the levels of stress hormones in the body.

... Sleep Issues: If you regularly struggle with insomnia, apnea, or restless

sleep patterns, it can seriously impact your life. By brewing a few

Lavender flowers in hot water, you can steep a wonderful tea that has

been used to induce sleep and relaxation for thousands of years. This is

closely linked to the flower’s impact on the nervous system, and can

also help to clear your mind of negative thoughts or clutter. It is

commonly combined with meditation techniques, either in essential oil

or aromatherapy form.

... Anti-Inflammatory Qualities: Everyone is looking for a reliable way to

relax the body and mind, and Lavender takes care of both. If you add

flowers to your bathwater and take a nice long soak, the anti-

inflammatory components of Lavender can help to reduce inflammation

throughout the body and easy hurting muscles. The anti-inflammatory

and antioxidant properties of lavender are quite potent, and this is .one

of the most trusted applications of lavender flowers

... Skin Care: An easy, mobile way to always take care of your skin is to fill

a spray bottle with Lavender flowers. When your skin is feeling dry or

irritated, simply spray some of the infused water on the area and enjoy

the quick relief that it can provide. This can also work for chronic

conditions, like psoriasis, eczema, and even acne.

Article Continues on Page 22

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 22

Healing Herb, Lavender—Continued From Page 21

... Antiseptic Ability: Although many people turn to Lavender to relaxation and

aroma therapeutic applications, its effect on infection is impressive, to say the least.

Many people apply crushed Lavender leaves on wounds and injuries to promote not

only quick healing of the wounds, but also to prevent the development of

infections at those sites. This has been a popular use for lavender since antiquity.

... Hair Health: If you suffer from hair loss or any other condition that affects the

quality and health of your hair, seek out a Lavender-based shampoo. However,

some of those organic cosmetic products can be quite expensive, while others may

claim to be derived from lavender and still contain harsh chemicals.

One of the best options is to steep Lavender flowers as though you are brewing

tea and then apply that mixture to your hair. It will function as an effective shampoo

and significantly boost the health of your follicle beds and hair.

... Heart Issues: The relaxing qualities of Lavender, which come from its organic

compounds and antioxidants, also help the heart by reducing blood pressure and

easing the tension of blood vessels. This can prevent atherosclerosis and other

cardiovascular issues, thereby lowering your risk of strokes and heart attacks.

... Bloating and Digestive Issues: The polyphenols found in Lavender have a wide

range of effects on the body, including anti-aging impacts, but it can also

help prevent the development of harmful bacteria in the gut. Essentially, this will

prevent the accumulation of gas in the gut from the emissions of those bacteria. This

will ease stomach discomfort, reduce bloating, and eliminate cramping. Either

chewing on Lavender leaves or drinking a lavender tea can be effective in this way.

... A Final Word of Warning: Although not commonly considered an allergenic

substance, if you are susceptible from allergens in the Mint family, you could

experience negative side effects from Lavender as well. These are usually mild in

nature and include headaches, constipation, and increased appetite, while topical

application can cause mild irritation and redness.¢

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 23

—U.S.D.A. INVASIVE/WEEDY PLANTS—

Black Medick

(Medicago lupulina L.) Pea Family: Fabaceae

Source: USDA Invasive Plants and Weeds of the National Forests and Grasslands in the Southwest Region, Second Edition

Description Shallow, taprooted, low, trailing winter annual or short-lived perennial forb, with prostrate or ascending stems up to 30

inches long; where thick stands develop, stems may become erect, obtaining heights of 18 to 24 inches; 4-angled

stems are typically purple at the base, hairless or more rarely with some short hairs, although older stems become

less hairy; they branch occasionally.

Origin Native to Eurasia and Africa

Habitat Cultivated and disturbed or degraded sites in meadows, grassland, woodland, and forest communities, and roadsides

within elevation that generally range from 4,000 to 8,000 feet.

Leaves Alternate, compound leaves are trifoliate (cloverlike); younger leaves, toward the stems tips, have short hairy petioles;

older leaves have long petioles (up to 1-3/16 inches long); paired stipules at petiole base are lanceolate to ovate and

variable in size; leaflets are up to 9/16 inch long and about half as wide; medium to dark green, wedge-shaped or

obovate, hairy or nearly hairless, finely toothed with prominent veins.

Flowers Flowers February to December; 2 to 8 small, bright yellow flowers are borne in clusters about ½ to ¾ inch long; each

flower is about 1/8 inch long; when fully open, it has a pea-like floral structure with an upper standard and lower keel.

Fruit Fruit is a spirally twisted, thick-walled pod; each pod is black. About 1/8 inch long and contains a single dark seed that

is somewhat flattened and kidney-shaped, less than 1/8 inch long.

Propagation Reproduces by seed; once well-developed, vigorous, plant may produce more than 1,000 seeds.

Problem Black Medick easily spreads and can form large colonies and where it is allowed to grow undisturbed, it may displace

native species. Prior to fruiting, it can be confused with Burclover. This species generally occurs as a weed in

wildland areas of the Southwestern region rather than as an invasive plant.¢

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 24

MASTER GARDENER MONTHLY MEETING

Date: January 11, 2017 ± Notetaker: Rachel Gioannini, Certified MG

Welcome: The Meeting was called to order by Jeff Anderson at 9:17 am

Committee/Project Reports

MG Hotline:

• Gail and David Ross extended their Happy New Year wishes. Hotline is now in new quarters at 1170 N. Solano Public Health Bldg., the corner of

Solano and Spruce.

•

Always check with hotline on Internet as that is the most reliable source for signing up. Calendars in office are only a reference point. New quarters

can only handle 2 people max so don’t sign up if there is not room! 2/14 and 2/21 were in need of volunteers.

• An Open House for new offices was planned and working to get addresses changed everywhere they’re published. The MG office still needs

boxes and files to be unpacked.

•

Jeff related that recently, MG, Grace Foster, brought to Jeff’s attention a video from China showing chile peppers being grafted to Goji berries. Ann

will send out the address to the video. This research was started in the 1950’s, but was on hold for years and has only recently revisited.

Magazine:

• Ann Shine-Ring noted that Kari was at the meeting to take money and checks for MG Graduation. Graduation gifts can be taken to our Office or to

Juliet.

• We have a new Notetaker, Rachel Gioannini. Darrol is back and will be giving away a free vegetable seed pack. He’s contributing articles in the

MG Magazine.

• Ann announced proposed articles for our next magazine. Plant of the Month will be olive trees and it was noted that olive leaves are therapeutic,

have an antiviral component. New 2017 binder for MG Magazines is now available in the office.

• Discussion of forecasted weather and where temps are being taken. Official site for Las Cruces has been designated as the airport, because it’s

manned 24 hours. Sun-News uses the airport, which is can be colder or warmer than other areas. Temperatures can vary depending on

microclimates, etc. so have to adjust based on your knowledge of your specific area.

DAC News:

•

Jeff announced that the main focus this year would be school and community gardens and what we can do to make an impact. We will continue to

do our other activities as well but will be stepping up activities in the schools and community gardens.

• Jeff talked about how schools can have more success with hydroponic systems because they’re easier to do with regards to weather, can grow in

the winter and avoid environmental impacts. A program could be implemented over the summer and get people trained and interested.

• Need to develop some materials so be on the lookout for info on this on the Internet. Also need kid’s lessons and how to apply to learning to

curriculum. MG volunteers will visit in the schools every 1-2 weeks to help with water changing, fertilizers, and other tasks. There is money

available to help support this project and get the equipment. Jeff would like to target 5 schools, 4

grade classes, and do 2 units per school. The

hydroponic units can close over the winter break or keep it going and can close in the summer as needed.

• We need a new MG Coordinator to work closely with Jeff on this. Ann knows of Junior Master Gardeners across the country; this program might

be a good fit for a Junior Master Gardener program as well. Will need some space in the new offices to demo the unit, the space needs to be the

size of two totes.

Luna MG News: The Luna MG’s are not meeting again until Feb. 1, 2017.

Graduation/Awards:

• Juliet says the meeting room arrangements have been finalized. She is also working on door prizes and has a list of vendors.

• Dot will also make the certificates: the template is on Jeff’s computer.

• Graduation will be 11am-2pm and we need to know headcount for church and food providers. Church will set up tables and chairs but we will do

table clothes etc. Jeff is dealing with the food. Food will be Italian: let Jeff know if you have dietary issues. Have chicken and a vegetarian dish.

• Make checks out to NMSU and put “graduation” in memo. Get your check into Kari by next Friday.

• Ann has the list of MG volunteer hours. If you have no hours entered or if you have less than 25 hours, you’ll be considered inactive. More than 25

hours, you are active. Interns: 25 hours on hotline, 25 hours of other. Certified MG’s: 50 hours in whatever way you wish. Volunteer hours must be

accounted for through the online site.

Minutes Continued on Page 25

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 25

LUNA COUNTY MASTER GARDENER HOTLINES

Deming (At Extension Office) Thursdays 9:00-11:00am (575) 546-8806 Opens March 2, 2017

Columbus (At Library) Mondays 10:30-11:30am (575) 531-2612 Opens March 6, 2017

MG Monthly Meeting Minutes – Continued From Page 24

Old/New/Continuing Business

• MG Volunteer Coordinator: Donna has left our Program and has moved to Missouri, so we need new coordinator. (Dot Wyckoff has

volunteered to take on this responsibility.) Work done as a Volunteer Coordinator will count towards your volunteer hours.

• Program Coordinator(s): need someone to take over for Dael Goodman, who currently reserves this room and organizes the education

presentations.

• Rachel has volunteered to reserve our meeting room for MG meetings. Can only reserve for 3 months at a time. Can be more than one

person to organize the programs.

• Chile Conference Feb. 7, 2017: Jeff has not been contacted yet. In the past, we helped with registration the night before. This event is

run by Danise Koons and the Chile Pepper Institute. Jeff will send info through Ann when he knows more.

• Pecan Conference March 5-7, 2017: In the past, MG’s have worked sales tables (Ross’s) and helped with the pecan food fantasy on

Sunday. Jeff will check on how many people are needed. There is a brochure with rules about entries in to food fantasy at the office and

Jeff will send to Ann to send out.

• High on the Desert Conference Sierra Vista AZ March 9-10, 2017 Info on the workshops will be in the next magazine.

• Home and Garden Show March 4-5, 2017 Tracey is organizing this again. Will set up the booth on Friday and there are also shifts

available on Sat and Sun, am and pm. Sun pm will also help tear down the booth. Not sure what it will be this year. Will be at the Las

Cruces Convention Center.

• Landscape Maintenance Workshop March 30, 2017. Jeff will be doing this, will be for both professionals and homeowners and he will

see if he can get CEU’s for that. Probably at MG offices and is open to MG’s. Will want to know how many MG’s will be there. (also Jeff’s

birthday) 8am-4:30pm

• Hydroponics in Schools Program: Covered above.

Educational Presentation

Jeff presented Sean Hogan’s Western Plant Expedition PowerPoint that Sean presented at the Annual Master Gardener’s Conference from

September. Sean is the owner of Cistus Nursery in Portland, OR.

Next Meeting: Wednesday, February 8, 2017, Roadrunner Room, Branigan Library.

Meeting adjourned at 11:24

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2017 Page 26

Link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/plantclinic/index.html

The Plant Diagnostic Clinic is designed to provide plant diagnostic services for the State of New Mexico. Its services include

analysis of plant material for plant pathogens and environmental stresses as well as suggesting appropriate control measures when

available.

The Clinic also facilitates insect and weed identification through referrals to other specialists. Its clients include extension

personnel, crop consultants, growers, retailers, landscape professionals, golf courses, researchers, government agencies, and

homeowners.

The Plant Diagnostic Clinic works very closely with the New Mexico Cooperative Extension County offices

. For initial assistance

with plant problems first contact the County Extension office near you. The County Extension staff will assist you with sample

submission to the clinic if needed. No diagnostic service fees will be applied to samples submitted through Extension offices.

Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office (575) 525-6649

Luna County Cooperative Extension Office (575) 546-8806

IMPORTANT: Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG

MASTER GARDENER HOTLINE DUTY

As of September 11, 2013, per MG request, Hotline duty signups will no longer be listed in this Magazine. As of 1/8/14, we now can sign up for Hotline

Duty online at the same website location where we now record our Volunteer Service hours.

Connect to link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/county/donaana/mastergardener/ and click on Volunteer Hours Logging and you can click on either:

“Go to my log sheets” or “Go to my Calendar”

We are very grateful to Eric Graham, Certified MG, for donating many hours to creating this great new resource for MGs. Thank you!

IMPORTANT: Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG

volunteer forgets, please give him or her a “reminder” call. Be sure to get a copy of the Subs List, for

your information.

UPDATE: As of Tuesday, December 20, 2016, the Hotline will now operate in its new office

located at 1170 Solano, Suite M, Room 1833. The Hotline will still be open to the public on

Tuesdays and Fridays, from 9:00am through 12:00 noon. However, Hotline volunteers will

continue to be on duty through 1:00pm. For your information, the Extension Office is closed

daily from 12 noon to 1:00pm for staff lunches.

URGENT: We need a maximum of only 2 volunteers on each Hotline Day, as there is not enough

space for additional people in the new Hotline Office located in Room 1833.

Please consider volunteering for at least one, four-hour assignment to ensure we have adequate

coverage for our Hotline during the year.