Microsoft Word - Plans for Kiosk Revised.docx

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Revised Sep-12. 2016 Page 1

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Plans for Kiosk Revised, Sep-12, 2016

We have built three small kiosks for the Finger Lakes Land Trust in New York State. The kiosks are

designed to be low-cost, attractive (in a natural/rustic fashion), functional, long-lasting, and maintenance-

free. We also wanted to avoid the use of pressure-treated lumber and manufactured materials to the

greatest extent possible so that the kiosks would fit more comfortably in a natural setting. We believe that

we have accomplished most of these objectives; time will tell on the “long-lasting, and maintenance-

free.”

Figure 1. The kiosk on the FLT at Sweedler Preserve at Lick Brook

Figure 2. The kiosk at Kingsbury Woods Nature Preserve

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Figure 3. Kingsbury kiosk with trailhead register box

Figure 4. Kiosk at Bock-Harvey Nature Preserve

About these plans

These are use-at-your-own-risk plans. We cannot be responsible for your results when using

these plans.

Drawings are not intended to be scale drawings.

Quantities and descriptions in the bill of materials may be different for your project.

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Rough-cut Black Locust?

We decided to build the kiosks using rough-cut black locust lumber. This helped us meet the

objectives of a natural, rustic appearance, and avoidance of pressure-treated lumber. Black locust

is naturally rot-resistant. (We still find split black locust fence posts from the late 19

century

along the Finger Lakes Trail! They are like iron!)

It may be difficult to find black locust cut to the dimensions you need. You will need to hand-

select virtually every piece since knots, cavities, and irregular dimensions are common. It is

fairly easy to work when it is not well seasoned, but once seasoned, it is extremely hard. You

must use carbide cutting tools. You must also pre-drill full length holes for your screws and use

soap on the threads to avoid breaking them off. Also, black locust is prone to warping and

splitting as it seasons, so it is important that you assemble a structurally sound kiosk with

accurate cuts so the pieces mate well. A final treat is that slivers from rough-cut black locust are

quite nasty, and some have reported allergic reaction to the fine sawdust. Not to sound too

negative, once you have gotten used to working with black locust, you will find it an extremely

strong and beautiful wood capable of giving very satisfying results.

Dimensional lumber

If you decide to use dimensional lumber, remember that a 2″×4″ measures only 1½″×3½″; you

will have to adjust some fastener lengths.

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The project

There are three phases to the project.

Selecting the wood

Plan on spending several hours at the sawmill, and probably more than one trip. Make sure that

you have gloves, a measuring tape, these plans, and a notebook. Black locust is heavy so don’t

plan on using a roof rack for all of the lumber in one trip.

Pre-fabrication

This involves building the leg and and working rafter sub-assemblies, and cutting all of the

remaining pieces. You will want to do this in your shop and will need an accurate miter saw,

power drill and appropriate bits. Mark pieces that are fitted together so they can be matched up

during construction. Plan on spending 8-10 hours in the shop.

Construction

You will need at least one helper and preferably 2 or 3. Construction will probably take a full

day. If the holes and alignment go slowly, you may need part of a second day to finish.

Here is the general order of business:

1. Dig two holes. We try to keep the holes as small as possible using the undisturbed soil

around the holes for support and minimizing the amount of concrete or other fill. But

don’t have the holes so small that you have trouble with alignment. Remember that you

may have to move the bottom of the leg as well as the top.

2. Align the legs

3. Attach the ridge beam and the horizontal panel brackets to the legs

4. Fill in the holes

5. Lunch

6. Attach working rafter sub-assemblies to legs and ridge beam

7. Attach bottom roof boards front and back

8. Attach next two roof boards front and back

9. Attach the lazy rafters to the ridge beam and the two roof boards front and back

10. Attach the fourth roof boards front and back, then the ridge cap

11. Finish the panel

12. Finish the ground clean-up

Here is what you will need at the site:

 Two six foot step ladders

 5′ Rock bar

 Wrecking bar or pry bar

 Post-hole digger

 Shovel

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 Pulaski or similar for light landscaping

 Loppers for cutting roots in the holes

 Rake

 4-foot carpenter’s level

 Measuring tapes

 Carpenter’s square or other squaring tool

 Markers and pencils

 Three or four 1″×3″×12′ furring strips for braces

 Two 1″×3″×5′ furring strips for braces while aligning the legs

 Several blocks, for example 1″×4″×6″

 Four 24″ iron stakes

 Hand sledgehammer, for driving stakes and nudging the alignment

 Claw hammer or framing hammer

 Clamps

 More clamps

 Strong battery powered drill, drill bits, screw driver bits, and extra batteries. You will

want two drills for doing the roof, one with a drill bit and one with a screwdriver bit. You

can pass them back and forth to two workers.

 Some way to keep the fasteners organized

 ⅜″ Drill bit or auger for the carriage bolts.

 ⅞″ Spade bit for countersinking the carriage bolts

 Socket wrenches for carriage bolts

 Water for the concrete

 Gloves for all hands

 Eye protection for all eyes

 Hearing protection for all ears

 Plans, notebook, camera

 Optional: Two sawhorses and table top of some sort to keep tools and materials off the

ground

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shared or copied. Please let me know about your project if you use these plans.

In the shop

The legs

The legs are made from girders fabricated (in your shop) from 2″×6″, and

″×5″ lag screws or

4½″ or 5″ structural screws. This construction will be almost as stiff as a 6 x 8 without the

additional weight or board foot cost. Also, the two pieces will work together to prevent warping

in the other piece. Finally, the cutouts for the ridge beam are much easier. (Note that these

cutouts are done before the pieces are screwed together.)

The holes for the screws need to be pre-drilled for lag or construction screws, especially if the

wood is seasoned. Measure and lay out the location of the screws carefully so that you end up

with a nice clean appearance. If using lag screws, first drill a 7/8″ diameter countersink hole

about the depth of the screw head. Then drill a pilot hole about 1/16 smaller than the screw. If

using structural screws, it may not be necessary to countersink the heads. You will probably have

to clamp the pieces together to get them to line up since the pieces will undoubtedly have some

curvature. Once clamped, drill all of the holes and put in the screws before loosening the clamps.

Figure 5. Leg sub-assembly

Make cutouts in the tops of the 2″×6″ side leg pieces to

receive the ridge beam. These are easy to make with two

cuts. The cutout should be 3″ deep with the width equal to

the thickness of the ridge beam (2″ if using rough-cut).

Measure the width carefully so that the ridge beam will fit

snugly, but not too tight that you will have trouble at

assembly time.

As you make the cutouts, remember that the left and right

legs are different. The drawing above shows both legs. Pick

the best sides (visually) of the leg pieces to face front and to

the sides.

2″× 6″ × 10′

4½″ structural

screws

(

6-8 needed

)

10′

2″× 6″ × 10′

Straight cutout for

ridge beam

Front

2″× 6″

Cutout to receive

ridge beam

Front of kiosk

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The rafters

Cut the four working rafters that will connect from the Ridge to the rafter supports. Start with a

24″ section of 2″ x 4″. Layout the angles and cut them with a miter saw. The miter cuts at the

bottom end of the rafter are mainly cosmetic.

The rafter supports

Cut the two rafter supports. Start with a 44″ section of 2 x 4 and miter both ends at 60˚. The 44”

is a rough measurement that may vary depending on the thickness of the ridge beam, miter

angles of the top of the rafters, and the vertical distance between the rafter support and the ridge

beam (see Figure 11 below). Make a rough layout of the rafters and the simulated ridge beam

before cutting the miters. If the rafter support is a bit short, simply raise it up slightly.

Figure 7. Rafter support

30˚

44″

4″

1″

30˚

Rafter

Rafter support

Figure 6. Relationship between rafter and rafter support

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Build the rafter sub-assemblies

In this step, you will build the two rafter sub-assemblies each consisting of two rafters and the

rafter support. If you have space in your shop, the best way to do this is with a trial assembly of

the kiosk frame. Otherwise you can lay out the sub-assemblies on a piece of scrap plywood as

explained in the next section.

Trial Assembly

1. Support the two leg assemblies on saw horses parallel and 4 feet apart. The front side of

the legs should face the floor. Support the plywood display panel on clamped cleats (inset

below) between the two legs to align the legs as they will be in the final assembly. Use 6-

foot pipe clamps (partially visible below) to clamp the assembly together.

Figure 8. Trial assembly

2. Insert the ridge beam into the cutouts in

the top of the legs and center it across

the width of the kiosk.

3. Insert a 6″ construction screw through

the side leg 2″6″ into the ridge beam

(shown at right). This is temporary to

keep the trial assembly aligned. It will

be replaced in the field during

installation.

Figure 9. Trial assembly detail

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Figure 10. Build rafter sub-assemblies from trial assembly

4. Carefully align the rafters to the ridge beam and leg sub-assembly and clamp in place.

5. Clamp a 4-foot piece of scrap (not shown) between the ends of the rafters to form a rigid

triangle.

6. Fit the rafter support between the rafter ends making sure the support is perpendicular to

the leg.

7. Clamp the rafter support to the leg.

8. When everything is aligned correctly, drill pilot holes and then drive 4½″ construction

screws to attach the rafter support and the top of the rafters to the legs. This should now

hold the rafters and the rafter support in alignment.

9. Now working from the bottom of the rafter support, drill four countersink and pilot holes

at an angle perpendicular to the rafters as shown in Figure 11.

10. Drive the 4½″ and 6″ construction screws into each end of the rafter support to complete

the rafter sub-assembly.

11. Mark the location of the legs on the ridge beam to be used to align the structure in the

field. Also mark the top of the leg to be removed as shown in Figure 9.

12. When finished, the screws holding the rafter sub-assembly to the legs and ridge beam can

be removed. They will be replaced in the field during installation.

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shared or copied. Please let me know about your project if you use these plans.

“Breadboard” layout

If you do not use the trial assembly of the kiosk frame in the previous section, you can lay out the

rafter sub-assemblies on a small sheet of scrap plywood and do the build there.

1. Lay the two rafters and the rafter support flat as shown below.

2. Lay a short piece 2″×4″ standing on edge between them (green below) to simulate the

ridge beam. This 2″×4″ should be the same thickness (2″) as the actual ridge beam.

Measure this carefully so that the ridge beam will fit snugly, but not too tight, during

installation. Use clamps or screws to anchor the 2″×4″ to the plywood.

3. Align the rafters so they fit against the simulated ridge beam as shown. Use screws at the

upper end of the rafters to anchor the rafters firmly against the simulated ridge beam.

These screw holes will be used to attach the rafter sub-assembly to the leg during

installation.

4. Use clamps or temporary blocks (orange) at the lower ends of the rafters to prevent any

movement.

5. Then lay the rafter support across as shown below in red. The 44″ width of the rafter

support was based on the ridge beam being exactly 2″ thick. If you have a different

thickness, or much variation in your rafters or your angles, you may have to trim the

angled ends of the rafter support slightly.

6. After checking that the rafter support is perpendicular to the simulated ridge beam and

aligned with the rafters, use clamps or screws to anchor the rafter support to the plywood.

The screw holes shown below are used to anchor the rafter support to the leg during

installation.

7. Once the sub assembly is aligned, attach the rafter support to the bottom of both rafters

using 4½″ and 6″ construction screws.

Figure 11. Working rafters sub-assembly

8. Repeat this process for the other end of the kiosk. Remember to match the thickness of

the other end of the ridge beam. If there is much variation in your rafters, mark them and

the ridge beam once you have them fitted so you can match them up during assembly.

Temporary gauge for

thickness of ridge beam

Rafter support

Rafter

Temporary

alignment block

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“Lazy” rafters

Cut the remaining six “lazy” rafters in the same way that you cut the 4 working ones. The only

difference is that you might consider using lighter weight 2″×4″ stock. For example, if you find

some that are closer to 1½″×3″, they will work just fine. Their only purpose is to hold the roof

boards together; they are not supporting any weight. In fact, they are adding to the weight being

supported by the roof boards. Also, the spacers are not needed.

Roof cap

Use the best of the roof boards for the roof cap (¾″×8″×8′). Consider cutting drain grooves the

length of the roof cap as shown to prevent rain water from siphoning back under the roof cap.

Roof cap

Roof board

Ridge board

Ridge beam



Figure 12 . Roof cap

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The display panel

The display panel has overall dimensions of 48″ wide and 36″ high. It is made from a sandwich

of ½″ MDO plywood, ½″ Homosote Corkboard, and ⅛″ clear Lexan.

Both the MDO and the Corkboard are a full 48″×36″ inches and can be cut from a 4′×8′ sheet.

Since both are rather expensive, cut carefully. This will give you material for two kiosks with

factory cut sides and leave enough left over for a display panel of 4′ by slightly less than 2′. The

factory cut sides on the 48″×36″ are very useful for squaring up the legs and the panel brackets.

The Lexan should be ordered cut to size and will be approximately 45½″×33½″ to allow a 1¼″

margin on all four sides for the frame. It is best to build the frame first and then measure the

exact dimensions for the Lexan. Remember that you need allow a bit more than ⅛″ for

horizontal and vertical expansion. So for example, if your frame measures exactly 45½″ wide,

order the Lexan 45⅜″ wide.

Figure 13. Display panel

Display panel frame

Make the display panel frame from nice

straight pieces of 1″ x 2″ black locust. You

will need two 36″ pieces and two 48″ pieces.

Rip both sides to get a width of 1½″. Then

resaw the top and bottom to get a thickness

of ¾″.

Cut rabbet groves along one side of the

pieces ½″ wide and ¼″ deep as shown

below. Cut 45˚ miters on the corners to fit to

a frame measuring 36″×48″.

Lexan

Homosote

corkboard

MDO

plywood

2″ × 4″ Display brace

(top and bottom)

1″ × 3″ Display backing

(left and right)

36″

48″

Frame

2½″ trim

screws

1½″

½″

¼″

¾″

Figure 14. Frame detail

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Display panel brackets

There are horizontal brackets at the top and bottom of the display. These are made from two

2″×4″×56″ pieces. They should be fairly straight, but can have imperfections on the back side or

edges. Cut them a bit long and then trim to exact fit during construction.

You will attach the horizontal brackets to the back of the legs inside the 2″×6″ side members of

the legs. Use four 3½″ deck screws. Use the MDO Plywood panel as a square to make sure that

the legs are parallel, vertical, and exactly four feet apart measured from the inside edges of the

2″×6″ members. Then trim the horizontal brackets to length and clamp along the top and bottom

of the MDO panel. Then drive the screws in the four corners from the back of the kiosk. Note

that the horizontal brackets are somewhat structural in addition to supporting the display panel.

The vertical brackets serve only to provide an attachment point for the sides of the display panel.

These are made from 1″×6″×28″ boards. Cut the boards a bit long and then trim to exact fit

during construction.

You will attach the vertical brackets to the back of the legs between the two horizontal brackets.

Use 4 or more 2½″ deck screws driving them from the back of the kiosk.

Figure 15. Installing the display panel

1″ × 6″ × 28″

Display side bracket

(2 needed)

2″× 4″× 56″

Display bracket

(

2 needed

)

3½″ deck screws

(from back)

2½″ deck screws

(from back)

36″

48″

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On the site

Aligning the structure

The main challenge in building the kiosk is getting the two legs vertical, parallel, and exactly 4′

apart as measured from the inside edges of the legs. Additional complications are that the tops of

both legs need to be at the same level, and the fronts of the two legs need to be in the same plane

(in other words, not twisted with respect to each other).

We have had the best luck with the following

sequence:

1. First, try to get bottom of both holes at

approximately the same level. Do this by

leveling a board between the two holes and

then measuring from the board to the bottom

of each hole. If you find a slight difference,

work with the less deep hole since the other

one can be filled in slightly. This will be the

first leg. If there is a difference of more than a

few inches (for example, you hit bedrock),

then work with the deeper hole, planning to

cut the bottom off of the other leg. (If you

can’t get both legs at least 24″ into the ground,

consider moving to another location.)

law of kiosk building: The huge

boulder or bedrock will always be

found 20″ into the second hole.

2. Put both legs in their holes.

3. Clamp one end of a 5′ furring strip to the front

face of the first leg. Then, with both legs approximately vertical, clamp the other end of

the furring strip to the other leg. This will make sure that the fronts of both legs remain in

the same plane as you align the first leg.

4. Make the first leg accurately vertical using a good carpenter’s level. The leg needs to be

vertical left and right as well as front to back. Then use 1″×3″×12′ furring strips as braces

to hold the leg in position. One brace should be anchored well to the side and the other

well to the back of the kiosk. Make sure that the side brace is in the plane of the front of

the legs and that the back brace is 90˚ from that.

5. Fit the ridge beam in place between the two legs and use it to level the tops of the legs.

Measure any difference and then correct the second leg by filling in its hole or cutting off

the bottom of the leg (or deepening the hole) to brings the tops level.

6. Check that the first leg is vertical and aligned in the plane of the front of the legs.

Figure 16.

ligning the legs

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7. Decide on the height of the display panel. Normally bottom of the panel is 3′ above the

ground. Clamp a block of wood at this height to the inside of the first leg to support the

bottom corner of the MDO panel.

8. Clamp a temporary support to the bottom edge of the MDO panel on the other side to

hold the weight and keep it horizontal. Use a clamp on the first leg at the top of the MDO

panel to keep the panel vertical.

9. With the MDO panel snugly against the first leg (and the first leg well aligned vertically)

adjust the second leg using the MDO panel as a guide. This will make the second leg

vertical left to right. Use your carpenter’s level to get the second leg vertical front to

back. You may need to move the bottom or the top to prevent twisting the legs out of the

desired plane.

Figure 17. Aligning the tops of the legs (left) and squaring the legs using the MDO panel (right)

10. At this point, the legs should be aligned. Clamp the second leg to braces or to the first leg

and MDO panel.

11. Then with the legs aligned, adjust the left to right position of the ridge beam and attach it.

Then trim the length of the horizontal panel brackets to actual measurement and attach

them. Clamp the horizontal panel brackets to the MDO panel to align them.

12. Finally, fill the holes with concrete mix and water. Give the concrete a few minutes to set

up before you begin working on the roof, and work carefully so as not to disturb the

alignment until the concrete is well set.

Some people like to pre-mix the concrete and pour it wet into the holes, while others pour

the concrete mix in dry and then add water into the hole. Others pour water into the

bottom of the hole and then add dry concrete mix. Check out the quick-set concrete mix

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that is formulated for this technique; but be aware that it does set very quickly and you

will not have much time to correct any alignment problems.

Some people prefer rocks, gravel, tightly packed soil, or rock dust rather than concrete to

anchor the legs.

The Roof

Position the ridge beam in place and secure

with 4″ deck screws through the front

member of the leg assembly.

Fit the rafter sub-assembly into position on

the outside of the leg assembly. Align the

tops of the rafters with the ridge beam and

make the rafter support level. Clamp the

rafter support to the leg. Repeat for the other

rafter subassembly.

When rafter subassemblies are aligned, tighten the clamps and insert 3½″ deck screws through

the top of the rafters into the legs. Drill the holes for the two carriage bolts. Countersink the nuts.

Insert and tighten the carriage bolts. Finally, put two 4″ deck screws through the top of the rafters

into the ridge beam. Note where these screws are so you don’t hit them when attaching the roof

and the ridge cap.

Figure 19. Install the rafter sub-assemblies

Attach the ridge board to the ridge beam using two 4″ deck screws. Drive the screws between the

rafter locations so they don’t interfere with the other screws.

⅜ × 4″

carriage bolt

4″ deck

screws

3½″ deck

screws

2″× 6″

FRONT

¾″ × 4″ × 8′

ridge board

2″× 6″

FRONT

4″ deck

screw

Ridge beam

Leg

assembly

Figure 18. Install the ridge beam

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Figure 20. Roof construction

Start the roof at the bottom by clamping the #1 roof board (Figure 21) to the two front rafters.

Then drive a 4″ deck screw through the roof board into the rafter. Attach the #1 board to the back

rafters in the same way. This will prevent the ends from twisting as you build the roof.

Then do a rough layout of the next three roof boards in the front and back. You want the overlaps

to be about the same and the top roof board snug up against the ridge board. Mark the position of

the boards and then work from the bottom up by clamping the #2 board to the two end rafters,

and then securing with a 4″ deck screw. Do only #2 board front and back now; you will do the #3

and #4 boards front and back after the lazy rafters are in place. IMPORTANT: Drill pilot holes

for all roof board screws and drive the screws for boards #2, #3, and #4 near the contact point

with the board below and the rafter (screw locations shown in red below will cause the roof

boards to split).

Figure 21. Attaching roof boards

4″ deck

screws

¾″ × 8″ × 8′

roof board

¾″ × 8″ × 8′

roof cap

¾″ × 4″ × 8′

ridge board

2″× 6″

FRONT

















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Clamp the lazy rafters to the #1 roof board and align the upper end with the ridge beam. Secure

the lazy rafter to the ridge beam with a 4″ deck screw (see Figure 19 for screw location). Then

with the clamp still in place, drive the 4″ deck screws through the #1 and #2 roof boards into the

lazy rafter. Repeat for the all of the lazy rafters.

Figure 22. Attaching “lazy” rafters

To complete the roof, attach the third and fourth roof boards front and back, and then screw the

ridge cap down through the ridge board into the ridge beam. Use five 4″ deck screws along the

length of the ridge, offset slightly from the rafters to avoid interfering with the other screws

already in place.

Attach the ¾″×4″×8′ roof cap by driving several 4″ deck screws down into the ridge beam.

Roof tips

Before attaching the roof cap, consider cutting drip grooves as shown in Figure 12. On one kiosk

we had a slight problem with water siphoning back under the roof cap that this should prevent.

If there are gaps between the roof cap and the #4 roof board or any other potential leak spots, you

can also use some high quality silicone caulking.

Several kiosks have been built with this plan with a more conventional roof of flat boards,

membrane, and cedar shingles. This adds a bit to the cost and gives the kiosk a somewhat less

rustic look. The roof cap is not used.

“Lazy” rafters

“Working” rafters

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Maintaining the Display panel

You will need to instruct the person responsible for the content of the display panel, and provide

them with the proper driver for the trim screws. Here is how to remove the Lexan: Remove all of

the screws from the vertical frame piece on the right side of the panel. Remove the frame piece

and set it aside. Slide the Lexan sheet slightly to the right so that it is free from the left side frame

piece. Then lift the horizontal center of the Lexan away from the corkboard to buckle the sheet

enough to free it from the top frame piece. You can then remove the Lexan sheet and carefully

set it aside. Reverse the process after changing the content. An office stapler is probably the best

way to attach paper to the cork board. Hopefully, it should not be necessary to laminate the

content.

Kadillac Kiosk

The kiosk shown below was professionally designed and was constructed and installed using

similar techniques to those described above. The kiosk features two professionally printed panels

and a bulletin board display panel (not completed in this photo) for display of changing content.

The roof is flat boards, membrane, and cedar shakes. The vertical posts are 6″ x 6″ black locust.

Figure 23. Kadillac Kiosk at Roy H. Park Nature Preserve South Parking Area

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Revised Sep-12. 2016 Page 20

These plans may be used for non-commercial projects only. No guarantees are included or implied. Include complete document if these plans are

shared or copied. Please let me know about your project if you use these plans.

Hemlock Kiosk

This kiosk was built using 6″×6″ Black Locust for the six posts that are in contact with the

ground. The remainder of the structure was made using rough cut Hemlock.

Figure 24. Hemlock Kiosk at the Roy H. Park Preserve North Parking Area

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Revised Sep-12. 2016 Page 21

These plans may be used for non-commercial projects only. No guarantees are included or implied. Include complete document if these plans are

shared or copied. Please let me know about your project if you use these plans.

Bill of materials

The following is an approximate list of materials needed for this project. You may adjust

quantities and dimensions as needed. Also, use your own judgement and preference for quantity

and style of fasteners.

Quantity Item Description

4 2″×6″×10′ Leg fronts and sides. Should be full 2″×6″. Should be as

straight as possible with 3 good edges for 7½ feet of length. The

end to be buried can have defects.

1 2″×4″×8′ Ridge beam. This should be straight with square edges.

4 2″×4″×24″ Working rafters. Should be full 2″×4″. Plan on cutting from 8-

footers if you can get 3 or 4 good pieces. It helps if these are

fairly similar and consistent in width and thickness, with

straight, square edges.

6 2″×4″×24″ Lazy rafters. Can be same as above, but lighter weight (for

example, 1½″×3½″)and some variation is OK. Cut from 8-

footers.

1 1″×4″×8′ Ridge board. This should be straight with square edges.

9 ¾″×8″×8′ Roof boards. If possible, get these cut to order rather than using

full one-inch thick rough cut. This will reduce the weight of the

roof. There can be some imperfections on the edges since there

is 1½″ - 2″ of overlap. But there should be no holes in the

middle. Some warp is OK since these will be screwed down,

but the edges should be fairly straight. There can also be some

variation in width as long as you plan for it. Save the best ones

for the ridge cap and the bottom front.

2 2″×4″×5′ Horizontal display brackets. These are out of sight in the back

and can have some imperfection. Square one end in the shop

and then cut to exact length during assembly.

2 1″×6″×30″ Vertical display brackets. These are out of sight in the back and

can have some imperfection. Square one end in the shop and

then cut to exact length during assembly.

2 1″×2″×8′ Display frame. You will rip these to 1½″ and resaw to ¾″ thick

and then cut 48″ and 36″ pieces. These want to be straight and

uniform so you end up with a nice looking frame to hold the

Lexan. If you find a single nice 1″×4″×8′ you could use that

instead.

1 48″×36″ MDO

Plywood

This is waterproof, but it wouldn’t hurt to paint the back side.

1 48″×36″

corkboard

Homosote

Keep this protected until final assembly.

1 45½″×33½″×⅛″

Lexan

There are two inferior grades between Lexan and “plexigrass”

which might work, but Lexan is preferred for strength (pretty

much unbreakable) and no discoloration.

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Revised Sep-12. 2016 Page 22

These plans may be used for non-commercial projects only. No guarantees are included or implied. Include complete document if these plans are

shared or copied. Please let me know about your project if you use these plans.

Quantity Item Description

″×5″

galvanized lag

screw

For attaching the front and side members of the leg sub-

assemblies. Comparable structural screws could be used, for

example, 4½″ Headlok screws.

4 ⅜×4″

galvanized

carriage bolt

Attach rafter support to legs, two at each end.

8 2½″ deck

screws

Attach vertical panel brackets from back into 2 x 6 leg fronts. 8

are needed.

20 3½″ deck

screws

Attach top of rafters to leg assemblies, one through front rafter

into 2 x 6 and one through back rafter into 2 x 4. 4 needed

Attach horizontal panel brackets from back into 2 x 6 leg fronts.

16 are needed.

59 4″ deck screws Attach ridge beam to leg assemblies, one through 2 x 6 into

front of ridge beam and one through 2 x 4 into back of ridge

beam. 4 needed.

Attach ridge board to ridge beam. 2 needed.

Attach roof boards to rafters. 50 are needed.

Attach ridge cap through ridge board into ridge beam. 5 are

needed

22 2½″ stainless

trim screws

Attach frame though Homosote and MDO plywood to 1 x 6

vertical bracket on sides and 2 x 4 horizontal brackets top and

bottom.

3-4 40 lb. concrete

mix

Consider the quick-setting mix.

Roger Hopkins

Ithaca, NY

[email protected]

Sweedler: Thanks to Betsy Darlington (inspiration), Tom Brown (black locust), Dave Schurman

(clamps, garage, and advice), Gary Mallow (encouragement & sweat), Will Hopkins (concrete

& counsel), Carl Leopold (appreciation)

Kingsbury: Thanks to Chris Olney (make it happen), Sheila Kingsbury (site), Tom Brown (black

locust), Dennis Baldwin (Eagle Scout in waiting) and comrades, Baldwin/Costich family (pizza,

transportation, impossibly tall and heavy step ladder, immeasurable help)