other hand, a key challenge to this market access optimism is the reality that the geographic
preferences exhibited by so-called ethical markets may, in fact, reinforce global inequities rather
than provide a new economic development opportunity for the disenfranchised (Nel et al., 2007:
126). Indeed, trends in the certified forest products market reveal that high-income countries in
the Global North have the largest shares of certified forests (Abrams et al., 2018).
One of the problems with this research, however, is that most of what we know about these
trends comes from a small range of industries, largely studies of fair trade products, forest
certification, and carbon credit markets (e.g. Abrams et al., 2018; Atela et al., 2014; Auld 2010;
Bidwell et al., 2018; Corbera and Brown, 2014). The goal of this article is to expand our
understanding of the evolution of ethical product markets over time and the associated shifts in
the geographies of ethical production by looking at an industry that does not yet have a widely-
adopted set of fair trade or ethical production standards, namely, the ethical diamond market.
The ethical diamond market is an interesting case because the ethical sub-market developed
specifically as a competition among countries of origin, with Canadian officials and diamond
producers trading on Canada’s reputation for good governance, as well as utopian visions of a
pristine Arctic landscape to position Canadian diamonds as the most ethical choice. This
particular “geographical imaginary” (Gregory, 2009) was described by an industry analyst as
follows: “Canada's positive image became part of our branding strategy … Canada, renowned
for vast open spaces, pure driven snow and pristine beauty is now helping the generic Canadian
diamond to be recognized internationally” (Morris, 2005). On the other hand, just as countries’
reputations for product quality can shift over time, so too can their reputations as ethical
production spaces. In the case of diamonds, Canada’s ethical monopoly is being challenged on
multiple fronts, including by those who argue that the market should be serving the most
marginalized diamond producing countries and communities. In order to understand the
governance and development impacts of ethical product markets, we need to look beyond the
evolution of a single firm or place, and understand the competitive dynamics and shifting
positionalities of different ethical production sites. This article focuses on the following
questions: (1) To what extent has the contestation over Canada’s ethical monopoly actually
changed the ethical diamond market? Specifically, how much market share have different ethical
alternatives, including Canadian diamonds, gained and lost over time? And, (2) What does this
tell us about the governance and development outcomes of the market?
In order to answer these questions, we created a database of self-described ethical diamond
retailers, and used an online archive (the Wayback Machine) to identify the countries of origin
and other ethical diamond types (e.g. lab-created diamonds) that each firm sold and promoted on
their websites each year between 1990 and 2019. This method allowed us to measure what we
call the “discursive market share” for each country of origin and other ethical diamond types, a
proxy measure that is useful in the absence of other measures of market share such as value or
volume sold, and that can be applied to other industries as well.
The article proceeds as follows: First, we define ethical product markets and situate our research
within the broader governance literature on social and environmental standards. Then, we
describe in more detail the ethical diamond market and how it has evolved since the late 1990s